With every quick glance out the window, the “midnight sun” as they call it, was a stark reminder of where we were in the world. North, very north. The land where at this time of the year, the sun only sets for a mere few hours before starting another day. “Light, and work; that was summer in Alaska,” describes Kristen Hannah ever so accurately in her novel, The Great Alone.
It is further said that the name Alaska is probably an abbreviation of Unalaska, derived from the original Aleut word ‘agunalaksh,’ which means "the shores where the sea breaks its back." The war between water and land is never-ending.
“Waves shatter themselves in spent fury against the rocky bulwarks of the coast; giant tides eat away the sand beaches and alter the entire contour of an island overnight; williwaw winds pour down the side of a volcano like snow sliding off a roof, building to a hundred-mile velocity in a matter of minutes and churning the ocean into a maelstrom where the stoutest vessels founder.” - Corey Ford, renowned Alaskan author.
You feel a bit insulated from the water in Talkeetna, but you know it’s there by the weather patterns brewing overhead that rip and roar through the Denali range. And the fast-moving Susitna River running through town beckons you to follow its current, and reminds you of the great wild to where it leads.
This was my first trip to Alaska, and will certainly not be my last. I’ve wanted to go for so many years, and as a mountaineer, have certainly had Denali on my climbing radar for the last few. But I somehow also knew Alaska wasn’t a place you could just casually visit. It deserved my full attention.
With only a week to spend, I had resolved to approach this trip as a scouting trip; an opportunity to see a lot, and dig just deep enough to figure out where I’d like to spend more time in the future. As with all prior trips, it was also important (maybe moreso?) to focus less on checking off the touristy must-do’s, and instead on getting to know the people, their stories, and at least scratch the surface on understanding the politics, the industry and fishing culture.
Alaska is the kind of place where people are rumored to have gone “just for the summer” about 30 years ago - and then never leave. I can’t say I blame them. Marcus Sakey once said that “nobody is accidentally in Alaska. The people who are in Alaska are there because they choose to be, so they've sort of got a real frontier ethic.” Intentional, conscientous people fed up with convention? Certainly sounds like my type of people, so I set out to see if it was true.
Spoiler alert: it was. And I don’t think I’ll ever be the same knowing that so many of my type of people exist here.
And so the journey began. We landed in Anchorage and immediately set off for a quick tour of Denali National Park before heading to its charming mountain town, Talkeetna. Next up, the much more remote, less oft visited Tutka Bay and Macdonald Spit on the Kenai Peninsula. A bit on the beaten path, and a bit off: the perfect recipe for a true adventure. Without further ado…
Denali National Park / Talkeetna
To get to Denali National Park, you have one of three options: car, bus or train. While the train rides are said to be scenic and run often, we opted to rent a car, as it would give us the freedom to roam around the park for a day. There are certainly a fair amount of tourist lookout points and scenic stops (even a chance to meet some of the dogs which compete in the Iditarod) but we only had a day, so decided to just drive around and take in as much nature as possible, periodically stopping to get out and walk at a visitor center or lookout point.
If you’re lucky (and we were), you’ll see some moose and other critters along the way. Looking for a quick bite? We stopped just 15 minutes south of the Denali NP entrance at the Creekside Inn & Cafe for a sandwich and beers by the water. Simple and satisfying. After a full day of driving around, we headed to Talkeetna for the next few days.