Christmas in Tallinn, Estonia: The Unexpected Place You Should Definitely Have on Your List

Visiting a European Christmas market is a fantastic way to kick off or enhance the holiday season. Decorations and lights are everywhere, as are regional artisanal products (i.e.: unique gifts) and it is all further enhanced by the smells of baked gingerbread, steaming cups of spiced mulled wine, grilled snacks, and warming stews.

christmas market tallinn estonia
tallinn estonia peppersack

Most people initially think of Germany and Austria when researching potential Christmas-themed destinations, and this for good reason with the ‘heavy hitters’ of Leipzig, Nuremburg, Vienna and Salzburg perennially listed on the myriad best-of and top-ten articles that can be found.

However in recent years more focus has been given to cities that may be unexpected at first, until you dig a little deeper. This year Tallinn (Estonia) unseated 2x winner Zagreb (Croatia) to take the seemingly arbitrary crown of ‘best Christmas market’.

It’s definitely not the most expansive market that you will find, but we’d argue that this is not necessarily a bad thing, because the setting of what is possibly the most well preserved Old Town in Europe provides insta-worthy shots at every turn, and the market itself is in the largely pedestrianized UNESCO World Heritage designated area in the heart of the Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats). On top of that, the Tallinn Christmas market does not dominate the experience, instead it enhances a visit and allows you to explore the rest of the city as well – which is 100% worth a trip any time of year.

tallinn estonia christmas market
tallinn estonia christmas peppersack

A bit of history: Tallinn has been an important trading port on the Baltic dating back to the 10th century and then influence expanded further within the Hanseatic League for more detail but the crux of it is this is a) why there are so many merchant houses b )why it developed as a fortified city, and c) why so many others wanted to exert their influence over it.

It’s tumultuous history also lends to the unique feel of the city… it has the exceptional old town which dates to medieval time, a Nordic vibe from many years of Danish and Swedish rule, and then a noticeable Soviet influence when outside of the fortified city center (after WW2 the Soviets invaded what was a Nazi occupied state and ruled Estonia politically and economically until 20 August 1991).

Our advice is to take advantage of that mix that makes Estonia (and more specifically Tallinn) so unique and try experience it all.

Tallinn is very accessible – 15 minutes from the airport and as many € (with tip) by taxi and you are in the old town. Many visitors also arrive on the ferry from Helsinki which can be done in approx. 2hrs on the faster ferries if you are interested in a multi-country excursion. The city center is very pedestrian friendly and most things to do, see, taste, etc are walkable…and for those that are not – Uber works well and is very reasonably priced.

A double asterisk ** below indicates a favorite highlight not to be missed


Places to Stay:

old town tallinn estonia
town center tallinn estonia

Old Town:

Savoy Boutique Hotel - a 3 minute walk to the historic Town Hall Square, which is host to the Christmas Market as well as many other events throughout the year. Renovated to maintain the original architecture with a popular restaurant (and a good breakfast buffet in the morning)

Room to book: one of the top floor ‘artist rooms’.

Sokos Hotel Viru - just outside the fortified city center walls in Rotermanni (the quarter of Tallinn between the old town and the port) the Sokos Hotel Viru is well situated to explore all of Tallinn and take advantage of this formerly industrial area that has gone through (and still is in some parts) a transformation and revitalization as well as the attached shopping center and KGB Museum

Places to Eat:

Restaurants:  

Vaike restaurant

Vaike restaurant

Frank Restaurant

Frank Restaurant

Frank and locally brewed beer

Frank and locally brewed beer

Vaike restaurant

Vaike restaurant

Frank Restaurant & Bistro - (with a ‘speakeasy’ called Frank Underground downstairs)  

Tabac

Restaurant Farm

Flamm

Salt - (you’ll need to take an Uber to get here as it is a bit out of town – but Uber’s are easy, and very affordable in Tallinn)

Väike** - make a reservation. (there are two houses so don’t be discouraged if the ‘main’ house is booked. Local ingredients and traditional dishes done with a modern twist)

Other restaurant resources:

Bakeries:

Pontsik Doghnuts** - 10 for €3.70! fresh doughnuts, super inexpensive, and a feeling of stepping back in time

Rost** - in a newly renovated part of Rotermanni, in a building that used to be a flour mill. Try the hand-twisted cinnamon buns

Kaneel

Rost hand twisted cinnamon bun

Rost hand twisted cinnamon bun

Pontsik doughnuts

Pontsik doughnuts

Market:

Balti Jaama Turg**  - translates to: Baltic Station Market; a hugely successful renovation project – this building still has an antique/flea market on the top floor which maintains and extends maintain its Soviet market history, a grocery store in on the ground floor, and in between are food stalls, a mini brewery, a gym, a pet store, a Kalev chocolate shop, and other outdoor and indoor market stalls selling local…everything. The highlight here was Bao Jaam. A bit of insight: https://andershusa.com/baojaam-at-balti-jaama-turg-taiwanese-gua-bao-made-from-scratch

tallinn estonia market
bao buns tallinn

Wine Bars:

Pazzo - modern with an extensive list to try by the glass, discounts on bottles to take away, and some fun and tasty snacks

Gloria Wine Cellar - under the ancient wall there there are cosy snugs and arches and rooms to explore and a retail shop as well

Veinipood ja -baar TIKS - a cosy spot by the Balti Jaama Turg

Beer Bars:

Hell Hunt - good local breweries are represented and the food is apparently tasty as well (food not sampled)

Humalakoda: in the Balti Jaama market – they had 2x warm beers where we were there as an interesting alternative to mulled wine!

https://www.meganstarr.com/craft-beer-in-tallinn-estonia/  

Coffee:

Rost** - as referenced above – good coffee and pastries, especially the cinnamon buns

Klaus Kohvik

Galleries:

Folk art and craft union - the old town is filled with some great galleries (and a bunch of touristy shops too). From paintings to ceramics to woven items and clothing with historically influenced patterns – pop your head in (or under) and have a look as you explore – you will undoubtedly find something great

A Galerii jewelry gallery – all local/Estonian made jewelry; a must-see (and great place to find something to take home!)

tallinn estonia christmas anneli viik
old town tallinn estonia
tallinn estonia christmas market
tallinn estonia houses

Attractions:

Kalev Chocolate - *pro tip, if you decide to do a ‘pick n mix’ as I did…  all of the individually wrapped chocolates have different prices and the people behind you will know you are a newb

Seaplane Harbour Museum (with the Submarine Lembit)** – It’s an excellent visit, very interactive, and don’t forget to go see the ice-breaker ship which is docked behind this expansive museum

seaplane harbour tallinn estonia
Seaplane harbour tallinn estonia
seaplane harbour tallinn estonia
seaplane harbour tallinn estonia

Oldest pharmacy in Europe - a bit of novelty factor but fun to know and see and with a unique history

And of course wander to see the well preserved old city walls, towers and steeples (St Olav’s was once the tallest building in the world) and merchant buildings – tour the fortifications alone or with a guide, visit some of the museums – duck in to any fun little galleries and shops you might stumble across, and tap in to the additional resources here: https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng and https://www.visitestonia.com/en


When to go: We love exploring places during their shoulder seasons for a variety of purposes and reasons. I would imagine that Tallinn is great in the warmer and very long days of summer, but the Christmas Market received its top ranking for a reason and the city takes on an additional charm with snow in the air / crunching under foot. Just be prepared for cold temps and plot out your day around coffees, attractions, restaurants and any other fun sights and pit stops that are about a 15 min walk from each other to thaw out and refuel as you explore!

Crampons, Crevasses & Cogne - Full Send on a Weekend in the Alps

Mid December is one of my favorite times to take a trip to Chamonix. It’s right before the Christmas craziness, and the snow/ice is just starting to reach optimal conditions for all winter alpine activities. You get the mountains to yourselves and town is just re-opening for the season; it’s perfect. Chamonix at the holidays is also such a charming place to be, with all it’s festive cheer, unlimited gluhwein, and more fondue than you can possibly consume; all the makings of a perfect winter weekend.

We checked into our AirBnB, an adorable little cabin called Stephen’s Mazot, on Friday evening, hopped around town, sampling local beers, French wines, and tacos (my top recommendation: go to Monkey!) and were ready to get started on our adventure the next morning.

chamonix december
chamonix december
stephens mazot chamonix

I’ve been wanting to improve my alpine skills in prep for some big upcoming mountain goals, so I reached out to Adventure Base, an outfitter based in Chamonix, in hopes of squeezing in a solid weekend of climbing/learning before heading into the holidays, and before it got too cold to spend a full day down on the Mer de Glace.

AB has an excellent reputation for leading climbs around the world, as well as helping clients of all different levels get comfortable in and around the mountains. As to be expected of a reputable outfitter, all of their mountain guides are IFMGA/UIAGM certified, which means they’ve spent 5+ years of their lives (& then some) obtaining the certifications necessary to confidently lead clients on any alpine/rock/other type of outdoor adventure.

Ahead of the weekend, I was promised that we would be lined up with a “SUPER awesome” mountain guide, and they weren’t lyin’! I’ve had some GREAT mountain guides in the past (including another one with Adventure Base - hi Fabio!) so I knew this guide would have big shoes to fill. Needless to say, Pablo did not disappoint.

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mer+de+glace+adventure+base

Before launching into the ins and outs of our weekend, a quick homage to guides in general, because I think they are sorely under appreciated / under acknowledged for their efforts: I think there is a misconception, or perhaps just a lack of understanding, amongst the general public about what it takes to become a mountain guide in a place like Chamonix. Part of this is understandable, as in some places around the world, all it requires to say you’re a “guide” is some solid climbing experience, a website, and proof you’ve done the climb once or twice before the client.

However, that is far, far from the case with IFMGA guides. These guides truly have to “earn their wings” and have probably worked harder for their accreditation than any of us have ever worked in our office jobs. These guides spend 5 years of their lives learning not only alpine skills, but a variety of other things as well: CPR, avalanche safety, wilderness first responder, how to work with clients / handle medical needs / read the weather, etc. and then they spend their guiding “on season” getting up at the crack of down to meet clients, & often nights in huts, away from their homes/loved ones.

Professional leadership in the mountains is incredibly important and not a job these guides - or their certifiers - take lightly. And, you have to not only become the best, but stay the best, re-certifying once a year, and ensuring you are up on the latest technologies/information available.

Needless to say, guides are powerhouses, and sacrifice more than just their working hours. They learn the mountains so well that they become a part of them, and then they give away that part of themselves to their clients. Here’s to them.

Now to our weekend…

DAY ONE: MER DE GLACE & CRAMPON / ICE CLIMBING SKILLS

We got a “late start” in alpine terms, given that we needed to take the Montenvers train up to our starting point for the day & the first train was at 9am (you could technically walk, but it would take the better part of a day to get from Chamonix city center up to there, and would be very cold in mid-December, so the train is advisable).

adventure base guide pablo chamonix
montenvers train chamonix

From the Montenvers train, we climbed over the ropes and headed down towards the glacier.

To get down to the glacier, you have to climb down a long series of ladders, which in mid-December were partially covered in snow and ice, making it trickier than usual. I’m guessing that we were some of the last people to use these ladders before the winter sets in, as much later than mid-December, they likely would have been unusable. After about 30 minutes, we made it into the valley, taking in the views all around us, and started walking up the glacier. My favorite awe-worthy peak was the jagged, mighty Le Dru, and Pablo shared stories of his many climbs up it.

mer de glace
mer de glace

We spent the day out on the glacier, winding over it, enjoying the beautiful (but cold) day, and ultimately found a sunny patch (which quickly receded out of sight 5 minutes later) in which to practice our ice climbing skills. Pablo practiced dropping us (while secured by a rope, obvi!) down several big walls, as well as down a crevasse, and then having us climb out, using our ice axes.

For me, a big part of alpine skills refreshers is about getting comfortable: knowing exactly how and on what angle to use your crampons to hoist yourself up, getting a sense for how strong your ice axe (and you) are when it comes to pulling up a wall, knowing what angles help maximize your stability and minimize the effort needed to move quickly and efficiently. Our practice helped me feel stronger, safer, and more confident in all of my abilities.

mer de glace glacier crampons
mer de glace ice climbing

What felt like way too soon, it was time for us to head back off the glacier and back towards the ladders, where we would have to reverse our steps, and now climb back up to the train. A day well spent, and we were also quite exhausted from the frigid temps, and cold air blasting us all day in the open valley on the glacier. No complaints from us, but we had an early bedtime to follow! And good thing because…

DAY TWO: ICE CLIMBING IN COGNE

The first alarm went off at 3:45am on day two. The 3:45am alarm is always one that makes you ask yourself, “why the f&*! do I do this to myself on my ‘vacation’??” but after a coffee, we were chipper and ready to get going. The reason for the early wake up was because we would be hopping in Pablo’s car (remember how I said guides sacrifice all of their free time??) and driving to Italy, where we would be doing our best to beat the crowds in the very popular ice-climbing destination, Cogne.

We stopped in town for a pastry and a coffee (as you do in Italy) at a very quaint authentic Italian cafe, which was a highlight before the day even begun. Pulling into the parking lot, we were only the second ones there, so we were off to a good start. We gathered our gear from the car and headed out to Patri Acheronte, which was about an hour walk from the lot.

coffee cogne italy
cogne italy
cogne italy
gear cogne italy adventure base

Being up early has it’s perks: we watched the alpenglow slowly pour into the valley and illuminate everything around us, on our walk in to the waterfall. A beautiful morning. The rest of the day was spent climbing up the Patri Acheronte. A few other parties showed up, so we had to work around one another but generally stayed out of each others way (pro tip: the earlier you arrive here the better, as you get first dibs, and less of a chance of ice getting chipped down onto you!).

cogne italy patri acheronte
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We spent a few hours climbing, and it was awesome. We practiced keeping our heels low, and learning again how to minimize effort and maximize efficiency. Ice climbing does not require as much upper body strength as one may think, and in fact is largely powered by your legs, so we learned to utilize our energy accordingly.

cogne ice climbing adventure base
ice climbing cogne

We wrapped up in the afternoon and headed back to Chamonix with big smiles on our faces. I think I found my new favorite alpine activity!

It’s incredible to realize just how much you can do in 48 hours - and our couple of jam-packed days with Adventure Base was a great reminder.

We had just enough time in the evening to refuel with lots of nachos and fries at Cool Cats, and get a good night sleep at the cabin before heading back home to Amsterdam early the next morning.

What a weekend! We will be back for more!

chamonix
adventure base cogne climbing ice