Christmas in Tallinn, Estonia: The Unexpected Place You Should Definitely Have on Your List

March 16, 2019 Laura Lisowski

Visiting a European Christmas market is a fantastic way to kick off or enhance the holiday season. Decorations and lights are everywhere, as are regional artisanal products (i.e.: unique gifts) and it is all further enhanced by the smells of baked gingerbread, steaming cups of spiced mulled wine, grilled snacks, and warming stews.

Most people initially think of Germany and Austria when researching potential Christmas-themed destinations, and this for good reason with the ‘heavy hitters’ of Leipzig, Nuremburg, Vienna and Salzburg perennially listed on the myriad best-of and top-ten articles that can be found.

However in recent years more focus has been given to cities that may be unexpected at first, until you dig a little deeper. This year Tallinn (Estonia) unseated 2x winner Zagreb (Croatia) to take the seemingly arbitrary crown of ‘best Christmas market’.

It’s definitely not the most expansive market that you will find, but we’d argue that this is not necessarily a bad thing, because the setting of what is possibly the most well preserved Old Town in Europe provides insta-worthy shots at every turn, and the market itself is in the largely pedestrianized UNESCO World Heritage designated area in the heart of the Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats). On top of that, the Tallinn Christmas market does not dominate the experience, instead it enhances a visit and allows you to explore the rest of the city as well – which is 100% worth a trip any time of year.

A bit of history: Tallinn has been an important trading port on the Baltic dating back to the 10th century and then influence expanded further within the Hanseatic League for more detail but the crux of it is this is a) why there are so many merchant houses b )why it developed as a fortified city, and c) why so many others wanted to exert their influence over it.

It’s tumultuous history also lends to the unique feel of the city… it has the exceptional old town which dates to medieval time, a Nordic vibe from many years of Danish and Swedish rule, and then a noticeable Soviet influence when outside of the fortified city center (after WW2 the Soviets invaded what was a Nazi occupied state and ruled Estonia politically and economically until 20 August 1991).

Our advice is to take advantage of that mix that makes Estonia (and more specifically Tallinn) so unique and try experience it all.

Tallinn is very accessible – 15 minutes from the airport and as many € (with tip) by taxi and you are in the old town. Many visitors also arrive on the ferry from Helsinki which can be done in approx. 2hrs on the faster ferries if you are interested in a multi-country excursion. The city center is very pedestrian friendly and most things to do, see, taste, etc are walkable…and for those that are not – Uber works well and is very reasonably priced.

A double asterisk ** below indicates a favorite highlight not to be missed

Places to Stay:

Old Town:

Savoy Boutique Hotel - a 3 minute walk to the historic Town Hall Square, which is host to the Christmas Market as well as many other events throughout the year. Renovated to maintain the original architecture with a popular restaurant (and a good breakfast buffet in the morning)

Room to book: one of the top floor ‘artist rooms’.

Sokos Hotel Viru - just outside the fortified city center walls in Rotermanni (the quarter of Tallinn between the old town and the port) the Sokos Hotel Viru is well situated to explore all of Tallinn and take advantage of this formerly industrial area that has gone through (and still is in some parts) a transformation and revitalization as well as the attached shopping center and KGB Museum

Places to Eat:

Restaurants:

Frank Restaurant & Bistro - (with a ‘speakeasy’ called Frank Underground downstairs)

Tabac

Restaurant Farm

Flamm

Salt - (you’ll need to take an Uber to get here as it is a bit out of town – but Uber’s are easy, and very affordable in Tallinn)

Väike** - make a reservation. (there are two houses so don’t be discouraged if the ‘main’ house is booked. Local ingredients and traditional dishes done with a modern twist)

Other restaurant resources:

Bakeries:

Pontsik Doghnuts** - 10 for €3.70! fresh doughnuts, super inexpensive, and a feeling of stepping back in time

Rost** - in a newly renovated part of Rotermanni, in a building that used to be a flour mill. Try the hand-twisted cinnamon buns

Kaneel

Market:

Balti Jaama Turg** - translates to: Baltic Station Market; a hugely successful renovation project – this building still has an antique/flea market on the top floor which maintains and extends maintain its Soviet market history, a grocery store in on the ground floor, and in between are food stalls, a mini brewery, a gym, a pet store, a Kalev chocolate shop, and other outdoor and indoor market stalls selling local…everything. The highlight here was Bao Jaam. A bit of insight: https://andershusa.com/baojaam-at-balti-jaama-turg-taiwanese-gua-bao-made-from-scratch

Wine Bars:

Pazzo - modern with an extensive list to try by the glass, discounts on bottles to take away, and some fun and tasty snacks

Gloria Wine Cellar - under the ancient wall there there are cosy snugs and arches and rooms to explore and a retail shop as well

Veinipood ja -baar TIKS - a cosy spot by the Balti Jaama Turg

Beer Bars:

Hell Hunt - good local breweries are represented and the food is apparently tasty as well (food not sampled)

Humalakoda: in the Balti Jaama market – they had 2x warm beers where we were there as an interesting alternative to mulled wine!

https://www.meganstarr.com/craft-beer-in-tallinn-estonia/

Coffee:

Rost** - as referenced above – good coffee and pastries, especially the cinnamon buns

Klaus Kohvik

Galleries:

Folk art and craft union - the old town is filled with some great galleries (and a bunch of touristy shops too). From paintings to ceramics to woven items and clothing with historically influenced patterns – pop your head in (or under) and have a look as you explore – you will undoubtedly find something great

A Galerii jewelry gallery – all local/Estonian made jewelry; a must-see (and great place to find something to take home!)

Attractions:

Kalev Chocolate - *pro tip, if you decide to do a ‘pick n mix’ as I did… all of the individually wrapped chocolates have different prices and the people behind you will know you are a newb

Seaplane Harbour Museum (with the Submarine Lembit)** – It’s an excellent visit, very interactive, and don’t forget to go see the ice-breaker ship which is docked behind this expansive museum

Oldest pharmacy in Europe - a bit of novelty factor but fun to know and see and with a unique history

And of course wander to see the well preserved old city walls, towers and steeples (St Olav’s was once the tallest building in the world) and merchant buildings – tour the fortifications alone or with a guide, visit some of the museums – duck in to any fun little galleries and shops you might stumble across, and tap in to the additional resources here: https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng and https://www.visitestonia.com/en

When to go: We love exploring places during their shoulder seasons for a variety of purposes and reasons. I would imagine that Tallinn is great in the warmer and very long days of summer, but the Christmas Market received its top ranking for a reason and the city takes on an additional charm with snow in the air / crunching under foot. Just be prepared for cold temps and plot out your day around coffees, attractions, restaurants and any other fun sights and pit stops that are about a 15 min walk from each other to thaw out and refuel as you explore!

Seatown in a Snap: Where to Go When You've Only Got a Weekend

March 1, 2019 Laura Lisowski

I’m originally from the Pacific Northwest, which you would think would mean that I would know Seattle like the back of my hand. But alas, it’s a city that is constantly evolving, and so requires a thorough new inspection and update of ‘hot spots’ every few years. I recently had an opportunity to spend a quick few days back in my hometown and was impressed with both how much it has changed as well as the plethora of restaurants / shops available in the immediate downtown area. This guide is for the person who maybe is stuck in Seattle for a weekend, or is keen to roam around with the family or significant other downtown - and see the best of the best over a few days.

Where to Stay: Hotel Andra ($$)

I couldn’t imagine a more central, convenient, or classy hotel. As a frequent business traveler, I have developed relatively high expectations for city hotels, and Hotel Andra met and surpassed each and every one. It’s comfy, it’s walkable (literally <5 minutes to Pike Place Market), it’s quiet, and the rooms are impeccably clean and cozy.

It also has it’s own restaurant, which serves delicious food and drinks which you can either enjoy on site or take up to your room. What more can you ask for?

Things To Do:

South Lake Union
Ferry to Alki
Catch a Mariners Game
Check out Pike Place Market

Where to Eat:

Taco Chukis

Taqueria Cantina

Barrio Mexican Kitchen

Conversation

Assembly Hall

Serious Pie

Casual / Take Out:

Marination Station

FOB Poke Bar

Piroshky Piroshky

Where to Drink:

Le Caviste

Jupiter

Cloudburst Brewing

The Tasting Room

Barrel Thief

Can’t Miss:

Top Pot Doughnuts

Ellenos Real Greek Yogurt

Pico de Orizaba: Everest Prep with Climbing The Seven Summits

January 25, 2019 Laura Lisowski

I was recently introduced to Climbing the Seven Summits, which leads customized expeditions around the world, but as made obvious by the company name, has a particular focus on the highest point on every continent, i.e. the Seven Summits.

CTSS founder Mike Hamill is an industry vet, with 6 Everest summits under his belt (and countless other peaks bagged), and recently broke out on his own to form CTSS, recognizing the need for a more specialized / customized service in the mountaineering / climbing world. While his speciality is the Seven Summits (he wrote the guidebook), he leads trips around the globe and strives to make clients feel comfortable / adequately prepared ahead of what in most cases end up being life-changing climbs. Have you seen the elevations of Seven Summits climbs? Those puppies are not a walk in the park - so all hand holding, pre-trip consulting, and emotional support is welcomed (and a savvy business move by CTSS)!

In the case of a big expedition like Everest, CTSS aims to get as many climbers as possible out on an Orizaba climb in an effort to facilitate team bonding and provide an opportunity for a fitness check-in, a few months ahead of April Everest expeditions.

While not planning on climbing Everest, I was looking for a challenging climb with like-minded, go-getter type of people, so when given the opportunity to climb with a bunch of people training for an upcoming Everest bid, how could I say no? It would be a perfect opportunity to test my abilities / fitness, and get some beta on how to best train and prep for a future potential 8000m climb, Everest or otherwise.

For aspiring Orizaba climbers or potential CTSS clients, here’s what we got up to over the week (spoiler alert: it involves lots of tacos + burning off said tacos), and some key takeaways:

DAY ONE: ARRIVE IN MEXICO CITY

Jetlagged, I wandered around a local Polanco farmer’s market, checked into my hotel (Hyatt Regency Mexico City), ordered room service (let’s be honest, I ordered guacamole. Lots of guacamole.) and went to bed. Not much more to tell here. 16 hours of travel is no joke.

DAY TWO: GEAR CHECKS, SEE THE PYRAMIDS, EAT ALL THE TACOS

While most of us show up to these trips relatively dialed in on our gear after having a number of expeditions under our belts, I always think a gear check day is important for one’s sanity. Did I forget my crampons? Did I remember to pack my gaiters at the last minute as I fed the dog and ran out the door to catch my Uber? Will my sleeping bag be warm enough for this particular trip?

Having a second opinion and last minute review of gear puts the mind at ease, and also offers an opportunity to discuss any last minute changes that might help make for a more successful expedition. We laid out our gear and got final approval that we were prepared. One less thing to think about.

Post checks (which we fortunately all passed with flying colors), we were off to the Teotihuacan pyramids and a nearby cooperative for the afternoon, where we took in an Aztec history/geography lesson, tried various iterations of mezcal (the smoky ones were my favorite), and consumed some of the most authentic tortilla soup you could ever imagine (all guilt free, knowing we would be climbing hard the rest of the week!).

Teotihuacan was the largest urban center of Mesoamerica before the Aztecs, almost 1000 years prior to their epoch, and to this day is one of the most noted archaeological attractions in Mexico. Definitely worth a visit. And while we didn’t get a chance to stop here on our way out, I would highly recommend that anyone visiting the region do so. History lessons + tacos in a volcanic cave? Uh, yeah, sign me up.

mexico city aztec pyramids tortilla soup ctss

DAY THREE: CORTEZ PASS ACCLIMITIZATION HIKE, STAY AT POPO PARK

After some final shopping and trip preparations in Mexico City, we said goodbye to our urban creature comforts for the week and headed out to the mountains (finally!)

After a couple hours, we had arrived at Cortez Pass, a beautiful region where we could finally bask in the what we came here for: the mountains/volcanoes. In one direction, Popocatepatl (or “Popo” for short), an active stratavolcano, was pluming smoke at somewhat regular intervals, and in another direction, Ixtaccihuatl (or “Ixta” for short) could be seen in all of its glory on a beautifully sunny day.

We went for a few hour hike to shake out the cobwebs/jetlag and get our bodies used to being at a higher altitude, before descending back down to the Popo park area for one last night of sleep in a hotel bed / a final hearty meal.

DAY FOUR: HEAD TO CORTEZ PASS HUT, ACCLIMITIZATION HIKE ON IXTA

Well-rested, we started our day early with a hut breakfast and worked our way back up to Cortez Pass, everyone anxious to get our legs moving: it’s what we came here for after all! We dropped our gear and supplies off at the Cortez Pass hut, and shortly thereafter, started a climb up Ixta.

While some groups choose to fully climb/summit Ixta as an acclimitization for Orizaba, we opted to simply do a half-day hike in order to conserve energy for our real objective: Pico de Orizaba. There was no real need for us to push towards an Ixta summit, when a full day of hiking at altitude would do the trick. But make no mistake: the views were still awesome, our lungs were working hard, and I really didn’t feel like we had missed out on anything by not tagging the top.

DAY FIVE: LUNCH AT SERVIMONT, ARRIVE AT ORIZABA HUT

We started the day early, rising with the sun, as we had a long drive to get from Ixta to Orizaba before sunset - and a few final stops to make along the way. Popo was showing off bright and early, with not only clear skies providing impeccable views, but also one last volcanic poof goodbye as we packed up the gear into the van to depart the region.

About 2 hours from our final destination, the Piedra Grande hut on Orizaba, we stopped at a unique lodge in Tlachichuca called Servimont, where we would drop any gear not needed for the Orizaba camp/ascent. This wonderful lodge is managed by the Reyes family and has been involved in mountaineering activities in the Mexican volcanoes and outdoor adventures for four generations. Climbing memorabilia and maps line the walls, and certainly got us excited for our pending move into the mountains.

Servimont would serve as a sort of home base for the rest of our trip, as we planned to return for our last night post-summit before heading back to the city. Their staff was absolutely wonderful, and we met a handful of other Orizaba hopefuls, as Servimont seems to attract like-minded trekkers/climbers from around the world. A true focal point for the climbing community. By mid afternoon, both the team and our gear were piled into a 4x4 truck (necessary considering the rocky dirt roads en route to Orizaba) and we were on our way.

DAY SIX: PIEDRA GRANDE HUT, CARRY TO HIGH CAMP

We awoke at the Piedra Grande hut to clear views of the Pico de Orizaba summit as we downed coffee, eggs and chorizo, and spent the morning organizing our gear to determine what would be necessary up at high camp versus what could remain at the Orizaba hut.

While some climbers attempt the summit using the hut as a base camp, our group opted to establish a high camp instead, to give us optimal time to acclimatize, and maximize our chances of tagging the top. A smart move, I believe, considering we saw other climbers who tried to go hut > summit > hut falter and return to the hut unsuccessful, due to it simply being too big of a feat to do in one day, especially in inclement conditions.

About 4 hours of trekking directly uphill with heavy packs, through the beautiful base of Orizaba, up through the snowy labyrinth, we arrived at high camp, with a perfect view of our summit day objective: a couple hour scramble through scree, followed by a few hour glacier travel, and ultimately, the Pico de Orizaba summit. It was finally becoming real (and we all agreed: seemed achievable!). The team felt strong, and we were all excited/relieved to have a much clearer idea of what lie ahead.

We descended to the Piedra Grande hut, ate cheeseburgers, shared mountain stories, fears/motivations for climbing, and dreamed up future adventures; an absolutely picture perfect day in the mountains if I do say so myself.

DAY SEVEN: MOVE TO HIGH CAMP, PREPARE FOR SUMMIT DAY

It’s go time. We do one final survey of our equipment and grab any final items we will need. We had hoped for lighter packs today, but somehow, none of us seemed to be able to leave behind that last extra layer “just in case” of a supremely cold summit day (a decision we were later glad to have made), nor that extra food/water for camp that evening. Each of us was responsible for carrying up our own clothing / climbing gear, but we all carried a portion of the team gear load as well. Lest you neglect to realize, establishing a high camp means needing to bring up not only everything for summit day, but also all sleeping/eating/living equipment for the coming 24 hours, to ensure a healthy, happy, well-fed and hydrated team. Yup, that means hauling up many-liter water jugs, camping stoves/gas, and tent equipment, too. Oof.

We all justified our heavy backpack loads as Everest training, and got on with it, working our way back up the mountain to where we had left supplies the day prior.

By mid-afternoon, we had arrived to a very windy and cold - but absolutely stunning - high camp. We set up our tents, and crawled into our sleeping bags, where we would spend most of the rest of the evening - which would be an early one anyway in prep for the 3am wakeup call for dun dun dun, SUMMIT DAY. Snuggles were had by everybody; we had to find some way to stay warm!!

DAY EIGHT: SUMMIT ORIZABA AND DESCEND TO TlACHICUCA

3am came fast. 4am, our scheduled departure time, came even more quickly. I had woken up in the middle of the “night” with terribly swollen fingers (shout out to my rings for cutting off my circulation!) due to altitude, and was ready anyway to get my body moving. There’s nothing like the anticipation the night before a summit bid; sleep can be hard to come by when you’re rearing to GO. Ain’t no rest for the wicked... or something like that.

We slurped down as much oatmeal and tea as possible (whilst trying to avoid the howling wind from blowing dust into them), ensured our tents were secured, and set off into the early morning light. We moved slowly and steadily, leaving no man behind, and before we knew it, we were at the base of the glacier, putting on our crampons for the final few hours of climbing.

Not long after, the sun began to rise, greeting us with the most beautiful of scenery, a welcome morale boost for the team as we plugged along in frigid temps (remember how I said we all packed and had to carry up a few extra layers ‘just in case’? Boy were we glad for those on summit day. #worthit). My buff kept falling off of my face, and it only took 10 seconds of sitting around my neck for the breath (let’s be honest: snot) I had been exhaling to freeze, making it nearly impossible to put back on. It was cold.

We passed only one other group who had summited about 20 minutes ahead of us, but were otherwise the second party up the mountain. A few groups were about 20-30 minutes behind us, but it felt like we were up there alone and it was our summit and ours only. After overcoming a couple of false summits, we reached the top around 9:30am, where the sun was shining brightly and fervently, giving us (and more importantly, our snacks) a chance to thaw, before it would be time to head back down.

orizaba summit ctss climbing the seven summits

The descent to base camp was a beautiful one- and we even watched some hooligans from Colorado ski off of the summit (based on observation and conditions of the mountain, would not recommend this). It was entertaining, nonetheless.

But as if summitting Orizaba wasn’t enough, getting back to high camp was only the start of our day. We would then need to dismantle camp, repack our bags (with 2x the gear, since we had done 2 carries to high camp), and then make our way back down the mountain back to the original Piedra Grande hut. At the hut, we would gather any belongings left behind, pile back into our 4x4, and make our triumphant return to Servimont, hopefully in time for dinner and a much-deserved cerveza.

WOOF. It was long, and it was hard, and we all pretty much wanted to collapse after carrying all of our gear down lots of unstable scree (though none of us had QUITE as much gear as our local guide Ully pictured here) but we did it!

And quite honestly, we were all the better for it. Plus, it was great proof to each of us that we had trained sufficiently and were, indeed, ready to take on Everest in the Spring. Mission accomplished & spirits high.

We had only a few things left to do: drink local cerveza, eat to our hearts delight, shake the dust out of our gear for our flights the next day, and finally: enjoy a blissfully hot and refreshing shower.

I was asleep by 9:30.

DAY NINE: DEPART MEXICO CITY, SOAK IN THE MEMORIES

By 9am, we hit the road and headed back to Mexico City. The majority of the group was airport-bound to get home to their loved ones / jobs (ugh) but myself and one other opted to stay for an extra day to enjoy everything that Mexico City has to offer. We dropped our crew off at the airport, said our goodbyes, and promised to keep in touch. Most of the team (with me as the exception) would be reuniting at Everest in only a few short months, so agreed to coordinate on training plans / gear purchases, and looked forward to the promise of a short-lived separation and already quickly approaching reunion. Goodbyes are so much easier when they’re only “see you later”s.

As for the final two of us, we took full advantage of our last night in Mexico, taking in rooftop views, mezcal, and local cuisine, and then returned home the next day.

When I arrived home, jet lag had hardly even had a chance to wear off before I found myself reflecting on the trip, what we had accomplished, and feeling grateful for the incredibly inspiring group of friends I had made over the week.

…and as if you didn’t see this coming already: not one day later, I almost involuntarily found myself emailing the team to get the details on Everest.

What can I say: wild places, high peaks, and the incredible people they attract have an uncanny ability to infect, and not go away. I’ve caught the disease.

See you guys on Everest. *

(*Camp 2 or 3, I’m not insane enough (yet) to try and summit).

***

I leave you with these final words from Chris Kalman’s Climbing Manifesto, first published in Outdoor Journal in May 2018:

Don’t tell me how hard you climb. Tell me how you plan to change the world.

How can you use climbing as a tool to be a better human?

How can you take the minimalism of “fast and light” and apply it to your own consumptive life?

When you travel to climb, how will you make it worth the carbon footprint?

When you write about a place, how can you protect it from exploitation?

What can you do to improve the lives of others less fortunate?

How can you fight to protect the public lands where you recreate?

How can you fight to honor and vindicate the indigenous peoples those public lands were stolen from?

When you buy climbing equipment, don’t buy from anyone that engages in business practices that don’t align with your values. Your money is your mouthpiece. It’s your vote. Don’t shop deals. Shop values. Buy what sells you peace of mind.

When you consume climbing media, don’t consume anything that doesn’t align with your values. Clicks are dollars. Your attention is your pocketbook. If you think it is stupid, counter-productive, infantile, distracting, or simply banal, Do Not Click. Read something by an author that speaks to you. Educate yourself about something important. Sign a petition you care about. Donate to a charity you believe in. Don’t work on a climb. Work on learning to maximize your time.

When you go climbing, do it for pure reasons. Don’t spray. Don’t humble brag. Don’t overshare. Don’t hashtag because you’re starved for attention. Don’t play it cool. Don’t self-aggrandize. Don’t talk about numbers, period. Quit worrying about the size of your gut. Don’t be a dick. Don’t be a hypocrite. Don’t be a cynic. Don’t hate. Don’t be someone else. Don’t even measure up against someone else. Just be yourself. Be proud but not prideful. Try hard but don’t cuss. Be brave, not stupid. Be who your mom and dad taught you to be. Don’t be an ambassador of a brand, be an ambassador of humanity. Be respectful of the land.

Don’t stop climbing, just because it’s pointless. Don’t quit trying, just because it doesn’t matter. Everything matters. Cultivate passion. Work on your work ethic. Play because you can. Laugh. Smile. Smile more. Bring the smile home.

Keep your priorities straight.

Slowing down climate change is a necessity. Racial/gender/sexual equality is a necessity. Fighting fascism, corporate greed, xenophobia, oligarchy, fake news, death of ecosystems, and the longterm destruction of the world in favor of short term financial gains is a necessity.

Climbing is not a necessity.

Climbing is a coping mechanism. Climbing is fuel. Climbing is nourishment. Climbing is a tool.

Hone that tool. But don’t forget what it’s for in the first place.

Bring more equity, tolerance, compassion, and respect into the world.

Leave the world a better place.

Crampons, Crevasses & Cogne - Full Send on a Weekend in the Alps

December 28, 2018 Laura Lisowski

Mid December is one of my favorite times to take a trip to Chamonix. It’s right before the Christmas craziness, and the snow/ice is just starting to reach optimal conditions for all winter alpine activities. You get the mountains to yourselves and town is just re-opening for the season; it’s perfect. Chamonix at the holidays is also such a charming place to be, with all it’s festive cheer, unlimited gluhwein, and more fondue than you can possibly consume; all the makings of a perfect winter weekend.

We checked into our AirBnB, an adorable little cabin called Stephen’s Mazot, on Friday evening, hopped around town, sampling local beers, French wines, and tacos (my top recommendation: go to Monkey!) and were ready to get started on our adventure the next morning.

I’ve been wanting to improve my alpine skills in prep for some big upcoming mountain goals, so I reached out to Adventure Base, an outfitter based in Chamonix, in hopes of squeezing in a solid weekend of climbing/learning before heading into the holidays, and before it got too cold to spend a full day down on the Mer de Glace.

AB has an excellent reputation for leading climbs around the world, as well as helping clients of all different levels get comfortable in and around the mountains. As to be expected of a reputable outfitter, all of their mountain guides are IFMGA/UIAGM certified, which means they’ve spent 5+ years of their lives (& then some) obtaining the certifications necessary to confidently lead clients on any alpine/rock/other type of outdoor adventure.

Ahead of the weekend, I was promised that we would be lined up with a “SUPER awesome” mountain guide, and they weren’t lyin’! I’ve had some GREAT mountain guides in the past (including another one with Adventure Base - hi Fabio!) so I knew this guide would have big shoes to fill. Needless to say, Pablo did not disappoint.

Before launching into the ins and outs of our weekend, a quick homage to guides in general, because I think they are sorely under appreciated / under acknowledged for their efforts: I think there is a misconception, or perhaps just a lack of understanding, amongst the general public about what it takes to become a mountain guide in a place like Chamonix. Part of this is understandable, as in some places around the world, all it requires to say you’re a “guide” is some solid climbing experience, a website, and proof you’ve done the climb once or twice before the client.

However, that is far, far from the case with IFMGA guides. These guides truly have to “earn their wings” and have probably worked harder for their accreditation than any of us have ever worked in our office jobs. These guides spend 5 years of their lives learning not only alpine skills, but a variety of other things as well: CPR, avalanche safety, wilderness first responder, how to work with clients / handle medical needs / read the weather, etc. and then they spend their guiding “on season” getting up at the crack of down to meet clients, & often nights in huts, away from their homes/loved ones.

Professional leadership in the mountains is incredibly important and not a job these guides - or their certifiers - take lightly. And, you have to not only become the best, but stay the best, re-certifying once a year, and ensuring you are up on the latest technologies/information available.

Needless to say, guides are powerhouses, and sacrifice more than just their working hours. They learn the mountains so well that they become a part of them, and then they give away that part of themselves to their clients. Here’s to them.

Now to our weekend…

DAY ONE: MER DE GLACE & CRAMPON / ICE CLIMBING SKILLS

We got a “late start” in alpine terms, given that we needed to take the Montenvers train up to our starting point for the day & the first train was at 9am (you could technically walk, but it would take the better part of a day to get from Chamonix city center up to there, and would be very cold in mid-December, so the train is advisable).

From the Montenvers train, we climbed over the ropes and headed down towards the glacier.

To get down to the glacier, you have to climb down a long series of ladders, which in mid-December were partially covered in snow and ice, making it trickier than usual. I’m guessing that we were some of the last people to use these ladders before the winter sets in, as much later than mid-December, they likely would have been unusable. After about 30 minutes, we made it into the valley, taking in the views all around us, and started walking up the glacier. My favorite awe-worthy peak was the jagged, mighty Le Dru, and Pablo shared stories of his many climbs up it.

We spent the day out on the glacier, winding over it, enjoying the beautiful (but cold) day, and ultimately found a sunny patch (which quickly receded out of sight 5 minutes later) in which to practice our ice climbing skills. Pablo practiced dropping us (while secured by a rope, obvi!) down several big walls, as well as down a crevasse, and then having us climb out, using our ice axes.

For me, a big part of alpine skills refreshers is about getting comfortable: knowing exactly how and on what angle to use your crampons to hoist yourself up, getting a sense for how strong your ice axe (and you) are when it comes to pulling up a wall, knowing what angles help maximize your stability and minimize the effort needed to move quickly and efficiently. Our practice helped me feel stronger, safer, and more confident in all of my abilities.

What felt like way too soon, it was time for us to head back off the glacier and back towards the ladders, where we would have to reverse our steps, and now climb back up to the train. A day well spent, and we were also quite exhausted from the frigid temps, and cold air blasting us all day in the open valley on the glacier. No complaints from us, but we had an early bedtime to follow! And good thing because…

DAY TWO: ICE CLIMBING IN COGNE

The first alarm went off at 3:45am on day two. The 3:45am alarm is always one that makes you ask yourself, “why the f&*! do I do this to myself on my ‘vacation’??” but after a coffee, we were chipper and ready to get going. The reason for the early wake up was because we would be hopping in Pablo’s car (remember how I said guides sacrifice all of their free time??) and driving to Italy, where we would be doing our best to beat the crowds in the very popular ice-climbing destination, Cogne.

We stopped in town for a pastry and a coffee (as you do in Italy) at a very quaint authentic Italian cafe, which was a highlight before the day even begun. Pulling into the parking lot, we were only the second ones there, so we were off to a good start. We gathered our gear from the car and headed out to Patri Acheronte, which was about an hour walk from the lot.

Being up early has it’s perks: we watched the alpenglow slowly pour into the valley and illuminate everything around us, on our walk in to the waterfall. A beautiful morning. The rest of the day was spent climbing up the Patri Acheronte. A few other parties showed up, so we had to work around one another but generally stayed out of each others way (pro tip: the earlier you arrive here the better, as you get first dibs, and less of a chance of ice getting chipped down onto you!).

We spent a few hours climbing, and it was awesome. We practiced keeping our heels low, and learning again how to minimize effort and maximize efficiency. Ice climbing does not require as much upper body strength as one may think, and in fact is largely powered by your legs, so we learned to utilize our energy accordingly.

We wrapped up in the afternoon and headed back to Chamonix with big smiles on our faces. I think I found my new favorite alpine activity!

It’s incredible to realize just how much you can do in 48 hours - and our couple of jam-packed days with Adventure Base was a great reminder.

We had just enough time in the evening to refuel with lots of nachos and fries at Cool Cats, and get a good night sleep at the cabin before heading back home to Amsterdam early the next morning.

What a weekend! We will be back for more!

Regional Spotlight: An Urban Denver Adventure & Jackson Hole Escape

November 21, 2018 Laura Lisowski

The entire Colorado and Wyoming region has so much to offer – you could spend weeks just eating your way through Denver, or bounce to one of hundreds of mountain adventures within hours. If I do my job correctly, this guide will help you better understand what each has to offer and what spots to hit whether you have a few days or a few weeks in the Denver / Jackson Hole regions.

My initial draw to Denver for this trip was Outdoor Retailer, held at the city convention center. I make a point at least once every couple of years of getting out to Outdoor Retailer, especially now that it has moved from Salt Lake City to Denver, i.e. the mecca of weekend mountain adventures. For this particular trip, I wanted to also use the opportunity to do some city hopping around Denver, checking out the hotel, art, and brewery scene, followed by a long weekend getaway in Jackson Hole, easily one of my favorite places in the world (having been to the Alps, Dolomites, Andes, etc, Jackson Hole still remains towards the top of the list!)

Importantly, this trip took place during winter Outdoor Retailer in early November, which to Denver urbanites and Jackson Hole skiiers is considered the “off-season,” i.e. the season of waiting patiently for that first big snowfall which officially signals winter sports season. But to me, this shoulder season should very much be considered ‘on’ season for tourists for a number of reasons: 1) there are less crowds, 2) the weather hasn’t turned for the worse yet (& is actually quite nice given the region’s reputation for having way more sunny days than not!), 3) lower hotel prices given the lower volume of traffic, 4) the roads are not yet iced over, making road trips and outdoor adventures easy and safe.

DENVER:

PLACES TO STAY:

Hilton Denver City Center hosted me on this trip, and I would stay there again 10 times out of 10. They were within walking distance of everything I wanted to see/do, super useful in terms of concierge/front desk services, had a kick-butt breakfast, and have an incredible and diverse dinner offering at Prospect’s Urban Kitchen & Bar located conveniently on the lower level of the hotel. Not to mention, the hotel itself is completely affordable for the average traveler! An ideal spot for really anyone: business travelers, individuals, or families.

Another often overlooked but important qualifier is that a hotel be a place where you feel comfortable leaving bags if needed, as I did. I had no worries in my mind about leaving all of my luggage there for 3 days while on another leg of my trip, and that peace of mind was worth every penny of my stay!

Whatever you do, I would highly recommend finding a hotel in the city center or near union station. You’ll find that a hotel in either location is reliable, convenient, and will have all of the amenities you could ever want. Plus, being near highways (as the city center ones are) to get in and out on an adventure is another major perk. My friend who came from Golden to pick me up was able to get in and out of the city in a matter of minutes. Airport rides by Uber were also effortless. Win win.

AirBnB is also a good option in Denver, with many cute and well-located properties available. I would stay either near Union Station or in Capitol Hill.

FOOD:

Barcelona Wine Bar RiNo (half of all bottles of wine on Sundays - no brainer)
Cart Driver
The Rotary at Avanti
Illegal Pete’s
Liberati Denver
Sera’s Ramen Enclave
Cru Wine Bar
The Wolf’s Tailor
Cherry Cricket
Potager
Little Owl Coffee
LaMar’s Donuts
Truffle Table
La Cour Denver’s Art Bar
Vegetarian Restaurants: Root Down, True Food Kitchen, WaterCourse Foods

DRINKS:

Mockery Brewery
Our Mutual Friend Brewing
Improper City (food truck park, beer garden, live music)
Denver Distillery (what it sounds like: craft distillery & tasting room)

ACTIVITIES:

Go to the Denver Central Market
Hit up some of the Farmer’s markets - there are a few which run throughout the year
Walk through the Art District Santa Fe
Catch a Denver Broncos NFL game

JACKSON HOLE:

PLACES TO STAY:

We stayed at two different hotels, which were completely different but each had their own unique assets, depending on what you are looking for.

Let’s break them each down, shall we?

HOTEL JACKSON

Always a sucker for a place with a bit of history, I fully appreciated that this hotel was started as a passion project of the Darwiche family, as Jim Darwiche and his wife Safaa spent many decades developing numerous businesses in Jackson and fell in love with the town and it’s heritage before deciding to start the new Hotel Jackson. I say “new” because the original Hotel Jackson was one of the first five buildings that made up the town of Jackson in the early 1900s, and this hotel being so aptly named is a nod to history.

As for hospitality, this absolutely gorgeous, rustic, high-end hotel leaves no detail overlooked. They’ve got luxury dialed in: the front desk runs like a well-oiled machine, and when there, you truly feel as though you have nothing left to do but sit back and R E L A X and let them do the rest.

We noticed lots of little details, from the attentiveness of the staff, to the warm cookies, coffee/tea & adventure books available in the lobby, to the soothing music and bottle of water made available as part of the turn down service at night. We felt very well looked after here. Not to mention, the lodgy western flair makes you feel warm and cozy, without isolating you from the mountains right outside the front door. Hotel Jackson successfully brings the outside in.

A final perk: Hotel Jackson boasts one of the best restaurants in Jackson Hole, it’s very own on-site Lebanese and Mediterranean fusion restaurant called FIGS, which I’d certainly recommend you at least stop at for a dinner. But be careful setting up too close to the restaurant’s two story fireplace: you may never end up wanting to leave.

Importantly, Hotel Jackson is also the first LEED-certified hotel in Jackson Hole, so is ahead of the curve.

ANVIL HOTEL

Living in Europe has given me a real affinity for hotels that have that lodge meets ultra modern/hip feel. The lobby of the 49-room Anvil Hotel feels almost as though you’ve been dropped into a Huckberry catalogue. Fancy coffees are available for purchase, and the common area fireplace invites you to waste your day away cozied up in front of it. I have to be honest: I could’ve sat in their lobby and ignored the mountains outside all day long. Yes, it is THAT cozy and inviting.

Another perk: they have lots of fun trendy gear (including sunglasses from my friends over at Sunski!) and the entire hotel’s aesthetic just screams PENDLETON! Don’t forget to set aside some money to purchase a takeaway from their lobby store... if you're anything like me, you’ll want everything in there.

This hotel is a steal at a price point starting in the low 100’s, especially in shoulder season. What we loved most about the rooms was that they felt upscale and hip, but also just cozy/small enough that you almost believed you were in a cabin in the woods. The room got cooler at night (by choice, we could’ve turned on the heater, but opted not to), and we loved bundling up under the winter-ready heavy wool blankets adorning each bed. It is safe to say that Anvil encouraged us to fully embrace the cabin feels.

Interestingly, Anvil also has a fun history. Bloomberg recently quite aptly called it “the Wild West’s Dude Ranch for Hipsters”. The hotel has been around a long time (since the 1950’s, when it was considered more of a ‘motel’) and first caught the attention of now-owner hotelier Erik Warner in the mid-90’s. Early in his hospitality career, Warner worked the front desk at the “old” Anvil Hotel, and knew then that it could become something special. But it wasn’t until years later, on a visit back to Jackson Hole in 2014, that he discovered it’s current owners were toying with the idea of selling it. Armed with a couple decades of experience in the hospitality industry, and many successful projects under his belt, the time was finally right. Warner made a successful sales pitch and the Anvil Hotel became his. The entire hotel was gutted to become what it has become today. I suppose the combination of city hotelier flare + traditional Jackson Hole rustic is what makes this place feel so special.

FOOD:

Bin22 (easily our favorite this trip, we kept going back)
Gun Barrel
FIGS (in Hotel Jackson)
Local
Hatch
The Kitchen
Glorietta (on-property restaurant at Anvil Hotel)
The Bird
Cowboy Coffee
Persephone Bakery (best sit down breakfast)
Pearl Street Bagels (best cheap, delicious breakfast)

DRINKS:

Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (a classic spot, but they are under new ownership as of early 2018 and making a push to bring in great bands… this place gets better every year)
Snake River Brewery (also excellent for bar food)
Mangy Moose Restaurant & Saloon

SHOPS:

Stop into Spirit and Spice, try some of the many options on tap, and pick up some gifts for friends/family. They will ship!

ACTIVITIES:

FLY JACKSON HOLE AERIAL FLIGHT

My absolute biggest off-season activity recommendation for Jackson, if your wallet allows (and even if it doesn’t, because it’s absolutely worth the splurge), is to take in aerial views of the region with Fly Jackson Hole. They’ve been around for about 4 years as of 2018, and their operation is based right at the airport, so you can easily get to them – no excuses. What better way to see absolutely everything Jackson Hole has to offer than to see it all in one epic full swoop?

We spent a few hours with the pilots, Pete (owner) and Dave, and both are two of the nicest, most charismatic folks you could ever meet. You get the sense that they really love what they do, love and take pride in Jackson, and simply feel it is their obligation/honor to show other people the place they love so much.

Importantly, both absolutely know their stuff when it comes to flying, as they have over 50 years of charter flying experience between the two of them. This is an airplane ride you don’t feel even the slightest bit worried or on edge about, which allows you to focus all of your energy on the beauty all around you.

Fly Jackson Hole has 2 planes in their fleet: a Cessna 207 8-seater and a Cessna 172XP. You can’t go wrong with either – it’s more a matter of how many people you’ve got with you.

We opted for their Alpenglow Tour, which meant we had 90 minutes in the skies before, during and after sunset. The tour allowed us to see Jackson and surrounding areas by day, but then get over to the other side of the Tetons to capture photos of that coveted dewey pink just sneaking it’s way across the mountains before the day slipped into night. The best surprise for us was just how much our pilot Dave knew about the region – I’ve been coming to Jackson Hole for years, and felt like I learned more about the entire area in those 90 minutes than I had in a decade. The flight cost was worth the download on local history and knowledge in itself!

If you have any doubts about booking a trip, don’t. Just do it!

Now that we have covered that, here are other off-season activities (check on these before you go, as some are closed at certain points depending on exact timing):

DRIVING / HIKING AROUND THE PARK

I can’t stress enough: the best way to experience Jackson is to get a rental car (even better if it’s 4WD or a fun adventure vehicle) and GO!!! To optimize your time in the region and see everything the park has to offer, you’ll want to be able to get around on your own without relying on hotel shuttles which will only take you to the airport/ski slopes and back. Here are a few must-sees in the park:

Drive to Moulton Barn at Mormon Row
Check out the Elk Refuge
Hike to Taggart Lake
Visit Granite Hot Springs
Visit Kelly Warm Springs
Drive to Jenny Lake, Jackson Lake, Signal Mountain Lodge
Take the ski lift to the top at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Depending on the time of year, there is plenty of hiking. We were there in early November, which meant most of the trails were too snowy/icy, but if you go in even October, plenty of trails are still accessible.

*BONUS: Because I attended Outdoor Retailer in Winter 2018, I wanted to share some photos / takeaways from the event for anyone interested in attending a future show.

OUTDOOR RETAILER:

The general consensus especially now that they have split the winter show into two is that it is a much slower show, which actually was nice. It allows people to take a bit more time to chat and feel a little less crunched on time/appointments. At the 2018 November Winter show, I had a few important takeaways worth sharing around the show and trends across the industry as a whole:

I’ve been really excited to see how many panels/conversations are being had around innovation in an industry that has been slow to change. We are entering a new era.
Sustainability, transparency and a re-examined supply chain continue to be current and relevant issues across many industries - & it definitely applies here. Consumers are getting smarter & want to know what’s in their products, who’s making them, and where they’re coming from.
Retail and E-commerce as we know it are changing forever, thanks to behemoths like Amazon. Best for retailers to work with it, not against it.
There is still so much opportunity in the adventure foods landscape - particularly for companies that do things to stand out in a crowded market (i.e. like RXBar). Clif Bar / Larabar, etc. remain dominant players but are ripe for disruption. Bonus pts for clean labels, & fresh/natural trumps long shelf life. A newly discovered favorite brand adhering to this ethos was Four Points Bar. Check them out!
The US & Rest of World operate very independently. Regulations make it hard for brands to export to Europe. Lots of room to improve / work through the regulatory systems in order to take brands GLOBAL.
There’s a real buzz in this industry about using their retail platforms for good to effect real change in the US. Brands are investing a lot of time/resources/marketing $ into causes around public lands & its important work - & is being heard.

DISCLOSURE: This trip was sponsored or partially sponsored by Hilton City Center Hotel, Hotel Jackson, Anvil Hotel and Fly Jackson Hole. I thank each for their warm hospitality and partnership.