A 3 Week Winter Tour of Europe for the Adventurous!

January 21, 2025 Laura Lisowski

“So you’re the other ones, eh?” said an older American gentleman to us at a museum in Copenhagen when he heard our American accents. “Excuse me?” I asked, prodding him to repeat what he said. “I mean, you’re the only other American couple we’ve seen traveling this trip during the winter… you’re winter travelers, like us!” he exclaimed.

It’s true. We have absolutely come to love a winter European adventure, despite the colder temps, despite the higher chance of getting sick/having flight delays… we seem to have a proclivity for riskier travel. But really, we see something in winter adventures that our new friend had too: less crowds, easier restaurant reservations, and an opportunity to see a place in its natural winter element. The temps the last few years of winter travels have really not been all *that bad* either… no different than they would have been back at home. In fact, the weather is likely an improvement for us Seattleites, as the December and January months tend to be dark and quite rainy.

The good news is: flights keep-a-runnin’ all winter long, as do the ever-convenient and scenic trains across Europe. This trip, we wanted to take full opportunity of the 3 weeks of PTO our tech jobs allowed, and so we mapped out a diverse trip which would allow us to see and experience so many things that we love: good design, pastries (cardamom everything, please), excellent unique and funky wines, mountain adventures + Aperol apres’, inspiring architecture, and best of all: interesting, kind, diverse people of all walks of life.

Without further ado, here’s the step by step itinerary from our 3 week trip. At the very end, you’ll find a day by day guide if you want to parse out timing. We felt we had just the right amount of time in each place, but feel free to tweak according to your preferences. We probably could’ve spent another day or two in the Alps, as we are mountain-obsessed folks and will never turn down more mountain time. You may also find you want more than a couple of days in Budapest, and perhaps less days in Copenhagen… we personally felt a much stronger pull towards the Danish design, lifestyle, architecture so spent an extra few days there, but you should choose according to what you fancy and plan accordingly!

OSLO:

Stay: Grand Hotel Oslo, a history-filled, central, stunning hotel with probably the best hotel breakfast we have *ever* had (no we aren’t kidding… it was amazing). The hotel has been around since 1874 and in the intervening time, has played host to international celebrities, world leaders, politicians, Nobel Peace prize laureates. It’s certainly called the “Grand” hotel for good reason. There is a heck of a lot of history here. They also shared with us some really fun and quirky stories about the hotel which I couldn’t resist including here:

1) The prominent Palmen restaurant on site has been used for many different purposes over the years. When the hotel was initially built, the Palmen was a horse stable! Later it became a garden and eventually a backyard, then a winter garden. It wasn’t until 1913 that it finally became an integrated part of the hotel in it’s current restaurant form today.

2) The hotel has hosted thousands of historical events over the years, including for instance when Roald Amundsen, the explorer returned from his North Pole expedition in 1920. He was quoted to have said, “If in south, if in north, if in east, if in west… Grand Hotel is and will always be the best”

3) Many celebrities have stayed at the Grand, from Frank Sinatra to the Rolling Stones to Michael Jackson. You’ll find signatures of many of them in the Palmen restaurant.

4) The viral song/video “What does the fox say” was written by Norwegian comedy duo Ylvis entirely in the Palmen restaurant in the Grand.

There are so many other interesting and quirky facts, but I’ll keep it brief. You’ll just have to visit yourself to learn the rest!

The many options at brunch at Grand Hotel

Eat/Drink:

Eat: Vulkanfisk, Elias mat & sant, Hyde, Le Mayor, Maaemo, Arakataka, LuLu, Restaurant Kontrast, Crow Bar & Bryggeri, Fat City, Territoriet, Roots Restaurant (great mezze!)

Bakeries: Tid Bakeri, Apent Bakeri, Farine, Encore Oslo, Obelia, Noro Bjolsen Bakeri, Daegens bakeri, Bob the Bagel.

Drinks: Dr Kneipp’s Vinbar, Arakataka, Radegast Wine Bar, ROOR, Eff Eff Oyster and Wine Bar, Merkur Bar, Nektar vinbar, SALT (book tables outside by a fire), special mention of Tim Wendelboe for *coffee*

Strolling Oslo streets on a quiet December day

Trying the many types of beers on tap at ROOR

Do: Visit the Christmas markets at Spikersuppa, check out the Opera house, go to the Deichman Public library (and check out the conceptual Future Library on the upper floors!), check out the Museum of the Viking Age (reopening in 2027), book a sauna. Check out the Mathallen food hall (you could seriously spend a full day in here just eating!), walk around the design shops, and absolutely go sample coffee at the famous Tim Wendelboe!

Beautiful lamps in design shops — Design shops in Oslo

Notes: Be mindful of what days you are in Oslo, as much closes during the Christmas to New Years gap, and even into mid January. Many of our long coveted eating and wine-ing spots were not open over the holidays so we will have to return during the summer for those! The city definitely felt quiet during the winter… which for us was just great, but want to set expectations accordingly if you are looking for a buzzy hot spot, you may want to go elsewhere!

COPENHAGEN:

Stay: 25hours Indre By. When I say you need not look further for any other hotels after hearing this name, I mean it. This is one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at, and every. single. detail. is so well thought out, that you almost feel as though you are staying in an artistic masterpiece more than a hotel itself. They also have an incredible breakfast, the most posh lobby bar (and lobby in general… so many cozy fireplaces/reading spots that you wish/feel like it was your own home), and a very cool little shop including a self-serve candy bar (!!), many design/Copenhagen souvenir takeaways (not the tourist shop kind, but actually well curated), and even some beautiful clothing to purchase.

Our room also had a full view of one of the gorgeous inner city streets, and some nights we confess we just brought takeout and snacks back to our room to watch movies with a front row seat to town from bed … in many ways, it made for an even more superior experience than hitting the town. Win-win!

Entrance into the magical 25hours Indre By

Eat: So many great spots in CPH that it’s hard to know where to start, here are some of our favorites: Pauli, Nr. 30, Sanchez, Vaekst, SAFARI, Ancestrale, Hyttefadet, Hooked (my favorite salmon burger in the world with great natural wines!), Pizzeria C’ho Fame, Abaco (takeout!), Gasoline Grill (for a classic smash burger!)

Bakeries: Gosh, where to start. I swooned over Cardamom pastries for months before coming to CPH and not only was I pleasantly surprised with all of the traditional cardamom buns found, but there were many incredible surprises in pastry form, too, including the pistachio croissants at BUKA and the cardamom *croissant* at Hart Bageri. Yum! Other mentions: Meyers Bageri, H.U.G. Bageri, Rug Bakery, Skipper Bageri, Galst Bageri.

Drink: Vinterhytten (seasonal), BRUS, Anlobet, Fermentoren Beer Bar (check out the Big Lebowski-themed bathroom!), Library Bar, Fire Tyve, Cafe Side Hustle, Pio Vin & Bar, Le Petit Vinbar (in the Torverhallerne), Ubbe’s Vinhanndel/Vinbar, Pompette, not your USUAL wine bar, Laban wine bar, RASCAL, Den Vandrette, Sabotoren, Paradiso, Bar Vivant, Melo, Mikkeller Bar Viktoriagade, ABEN Brewery.

Do: Check out all of the design shops (and maybe, if you’re richer than us, buy a special piece to bring home!) including X Y and Z, go spent a few hours at the TorvehallerneKPH (food hall), walk around the University of Copenhagen Library, check out the Designmuseum Danmark.

Lighting inspiration in Designmuseum Danmark

Aside from all of the design/architecture which is an obvious starting place in Copenhagen, the Danish War museum was also a really incredible experience and a great place to stay warm on a cold winters day. We enjoyed learning all about XYZ whilst also seeing a live model of the war in Afghanistan complete with many soldiers stories.

The museum houses permanent exhibitions about war, defense and weapon technology, and presents Danish military history from the 1500s until today, with some very exceptional artifacts dating as far back as the 16th century. There’s a treasure trove of artifacts from samurai swords and ship models upstairs, if you’re into that kind of thing!

Notes: We were in CPH right around New Years and in the days following and while we felt VERY fulfilled by our trip, we did want to mention that some of our wishlist restaurants and shops were still closed through the second week of January. January 1 was a particularly difficult day to find really anything open… but it improved from there and overall we had zero regrets about visiting in the winter. In fact, it was quite nice having it (mostly) to ourselves with more local tourists and less Americans/other.

BUDAPEST:

Stay: We *loved* our stay at the very special luxury hotel, Mystery Hotel Budapest, especially with the spa component. It offered a very relaxing atmosphere and was quite close in walking distance to all of the shops/restaurants (or you can Uber if preferred, as Uber is quite affordable in Budapest). We joked that this felt like the most fun serious hotel we have ever stayed in, with a Mona Lisa behind the bed wearing a VIP necklace, and almost overdone (but not) decor. The breakfast included was also as over the top and extra as they come… I could not have eaten more food and still walked out of there - but that’s what makes it special. It’s a tongue in cheek type of decadence that you might not get at home but certainly will come to expect at Mystery Hotel.

Wellness and sauna at Mystery Hotel Budapest

A VIP Mona Lisa at Mystery Hotel Budapest

Eat: I joked the whole time that Budapest felt more like “Foodapest” as there are endless amounts of wine bars, bakeries and VPR (very posh restaurants!) to explore in the city. We did find a few relatively laid back but top-quality places that we loved, so will include some of those here, with some honorable mentions as well.

Best dinner options were Circo Pizza (love love their pizza + natural wine in a casual atmosphere), PINGRUMBA, Levant Lebanese Bistro, SALT, Babka Budapest (top notch!), BAR LOLA, HACHI Budapest, Zazie Bistro & Bar, Retek Bistro, MAK restaurant, Borkonyha, KonyvBar & Restaurant, TATI Farm to Table. LuLu Budapest was a great, trendy and healthy breakfast option, as was Lion’s Locker.

The Central Market Hall, built in 1897 (!) is also a fun spot to pick up some snacks or some food-related mementos to take home for you or your family/friends. We enjoyed seeing what was in season for fruit, and saw a lot of pastries unique to Eastern Europe.

Bakeries: VAJ Sas, NOR\MA, Laget Pekseg, COFFEE STAND BACKDOOR, Kern Collective Coffee, CORTO, Deryne Kenyer, Pekmuhely, Vekni, aran bakery (check out their porridge place a few doors down as well called Fagel by Artizan).

Drinks: Gravity Brewing, Huncutka Bite & Wine, WINE NOT? Wine bar, Charbon Art Cafe, Tokaj wine bar

A really fantastic meal of pizza and natural wine at Circo Pizza

A cinnamon bun for walking from aran bakery

Plethora of fruit on tap at Central Market hall in Budapest

Do: one of our favorite adventures in Budapest was simply walking and wandering the streets. We also made time to go up to Fisherman’s Bastion which offered incredible, unparalleled views of the entire city from the Pest side (side note, we spent most of our time on the other side, and only later in the trip did we discover we may have even liked the Pest side more… definitely worth going back for future exploring!). There are also so many incredible libraries to visit (a personal favorite thing for us to do, if you had not yet picked up on that!) and we recommend checking out as many of them as you can… our favorites were the Szabo Ervin and the Budapest University Library.

A bit of background on the Szabo Ervin: it was not always the library it is today, as once upon a time it was originally constructed as a palace - and its origins are on display from the moment one enters its wings, evidenced by its gilded interiors, floor to ceiling mirrors and ornate lighting fixtures. The Wenckheim Palace was originally created during the height of the Austro-Hungarian empire and served as a classic example of Hungarian Neo-Baroque architecture. In 1927, the residence was bought by the City Council of Budapest, and after four years of construction, it was reopened as a library in 1931 as Metropolitan Ervin Szabo Library. To date, it holds 1.1 million volumes and opens its doors to visitors for around 4 euros.

If you want to obsess even more over cool Budapest libraries, we recommend starting here.

If short on time, we also recommend you at minimum check out Fishermans Bastion, a stunning architectural marvel in the Budapest Castle District. Built in the late 19th century, it opened in 1902 for the Hungarian Millennium celebrations as a fortress featuring pointed towers and turrets, reminiscent of a fairytale castle. Since 1987, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

While in Budapest, we would be remiss if we didn’t also mention the need to set aside a full day to check out one of the baths. While we didn’t get an opportunity to do so on this trip, we’ve heard from many folks that is a worthwhile and necessary part of a first (or 90th) visit to the city.

Notes: Ubers were quite cheap for scooting around town. Definitely allocate some time to check out both the Buda and the Pest side, as they are distinctly different and neither should be neglected!

Interior views of Budapest University library

Gorgeous city views from Fisherman’s Bastion

Inside of Szabo Ervin library in a former palace

Outdoor bookstores are common in Budapest

GRAZ:

Stay: NED Hotel and Hotel Weitzer Graz.

Eat: One of our favorite spots in Graz was an incredible Moroccan restaurant specializing in traditional tagines, called Ya Habibi. We’d definitely recommend starting here! Other honorable mentions include Der Steirer, Gatto im Museum, Cafe Moses, GenieBerei am Markt, Oskar am Markt, KABUFF Bistro, Restaurant Kornati, Mohrenwirt Graz, Pierogi, EL PESCADOR im Rathaus, HUMMEL, Das Mundwerk.

Gorgeous natural wines in Graz at Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar

Bakeries: Coffeeshop Barista’s St Peter, Cafe Greenhouse, Cafe Fotter, Mimi’s, Klescher, Bakery Kern, Martin Auer.

Drinks: Wine bars are aplenty too for sampling local Austrian wines. We loved Glou Glou Wein und Champagnerbar and the owner was extremely friendly and generous with his time in telling us all about Austrian wines. Also check out Tscheppe ums Eck, Weinbar Auenbrugger, Gerlitz Hof, das MARKUS, WeinKost, Klapotetz Weinbar.

Do: There is a plethora of historic and contemporary architecture in Graz, including the Franciscan Church… but after a lot of time spent in cities this trip, our preference was actually all of the beautiful land/wineries and spaces outside of Graz, particularly as you head towards Styria (next section of our trip!)

Notes: Graz is the second largest city in Austria, which was news to us! We often hear the names Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg… Graz stays ever so slightly off the radar to the rest of us despite its size.

AUSTRIAN ALPS:

Stay: Hotel Nesslerhof - the happiness hotel is untouchable when it comes to incredible location, hospitality and overall experience in the Austrian alps. Their only flaw is that not as many people know about them as compared to places in Chamonix, Zermatt… but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Get in while you can… they’re heating up!

While we’ve certainly vacationed in the past in the more traditionally popular ski towns, we are actually huge fans of this option as a healthy alternative - perhaps even better, and more exclusive? The emphasis of the hotel is natural everything, and happiness everything, and you feel it from the moment you walk in, from the appealing and organic decor choices, to the enthusiasm and happiness emitted by the staff themselves. Whenever I’ve been to another one of the more popular resort times, I find myself at times overwhelmed by 1) choices of things to do outside of the lodge/skiing itself, 2) pulled in many directions versus doing what I was actually intending to do which is REST and decompress, and 3) food options, and sussing out various restaurants within spitting distance of my accommodations.

Hotel Nesslerhof sort of has all of the things you want - in ONE place. Their all inclusive model includes the most incredible (and ABUNDANT) meals you’ve ever had in your life, to the point where we had to start rationing ourselves on the amazing options (you mean local homemade icecream is included every night after a fresh sushi buffet AND a four course meal?!)… they also have more quiet/relaxation/spa rooms than you can even find time to visit while there. We got massages and visited the stunning spa looking out at the mountains, and even found time to enjoy their workout room as well. AND, best of all, the skiing is right out the front door so you literally walk to the slope from your bedroom. The proximity of everything made for a truly relaxing, indulgent, and happy experience which truly rivals all of those other places you may have heard about. TLDR: Don’t sleep on Nesslerhof and Großarl!

(And another bonus is that it’s in spitting distance of Slovenia, so you can also go ski Kranjska Gora if you’re looking for a bit of variety!)

Views of hotel Nesslerhof after a morning dusting

Eat/Drink: Though the town of Großarl does have a few other options, we ate all of our meals at Nesslerhof, as the meals are all included in the experience and they were 5 star, unbeatable cuisine, so why would you go anywhere else? Something we absolutely *loved* as well is the emphasis on local when it comes to the foods being served. Cheese comes from right down the road, meats as well… we are huge fans of eating hyperlocal and Nesslerhof delivers.

Local meats perfectly prepared at supper

We admit: Nesslerhof was so enjoyable that the only time we left the property was to ski/snowboard, and of course partake in apres up at the Sky Lounge Wolke 7 at the new mountain station of the Kieserlbahn cable car. 360 degree views of the Austrian alps, Aperol spritzes to our hearts delight, and a lot of tomfoolery from fellow skiers? We had a super A+ day!

Riding ski lift back to Hotel Nesslerhof

Views in town as the sun sets in Großarl

Aperol spritz apres ski at Sky Lounge Wolke 7

Do: Ski in and ski out of Nesslerhof, obviously. Be sure to go up to the Sky Lounge Wolke 7. But really, just enjoy staying at Nesslerhof, as it is the main attraction of this visit. We really loved the emphasis on natural happiness which is touted by the entire staff at Nesslerhof. You feel comfortable, and like you are able to enjoy a bit of luxury in an entirely non-pretentious, totally organic type of way. If outdoor sports are your thing, great, go do that and then come back and enjoy a sauna. Or if you’re like me and really just wanted some R&R, eat all of the delicious food served and spend a day getting a massage at the spa, followed by a few hours of reading in one of the many silent rooms.

Notes: We swung by Halstatt, Austria on our drive from Nesslerhof to Austria wine country and definitely recommend you do the same! You’ve probably seen Halstatt all over Instagram, and in some regards THE photo location that everyone posts from was a little underwhelming after seeing the classic photo so many times, but the rest of the town was quite adorable and worth a visit. It was also an easy halfway point between Graz and the alps, a great place to stretch the legs.

SLOVENIA:

Stay: Hotel Nebesa in Kobarid

Eat/Drink: One of my forever favorites is Hisa Franko, though they have become quite popular after Chef’s Table and being donned a Michelin star. We suggest pivoting over to Lake Bled, and eating a beautiful, slow meal at Bled Castle whilst overlooking all of Lake Bled and the surrounding mountains.

Do: Visit Kranjska Gora. Walk around Lake Jasna. Drive down to Triglav National Park. Check out the Vintgar Gorge (note: closed in winter). Spend a day at Lake Bled.

Views of Lake Bled and surrounding peaks from Bled Castle

Lake Bled and Bled Castle from down below

Notes: Slovenia is a very expansive, incredibly beautiful place worthy of a longer visit in itself - and personally we love the summer season there the most. It’s also easily accessible from places in Italy like Venice… so we recommend that you drive from Venice through Friuli in the summer, and do some hiking around Triglav/Slap Kocjak when you can more deeply appreciate the stunning icy blue waters in their prime summer season.

Views of the alps on the drive from Austria to Slovenia

STYRIA:

Stay: SteiRerBLiCke in Sudsteiermark was the most incredible location for overlooking all of the vineyards, not too far from Gamlitz.

Eat/Drink: Restaurant Broadmoar is a new top 3 favorite restaurant of ours, and was found outside of Graz in Styria.

When I say life-changing experience, believe me. Truly life changing. I have been to a few Michelin/Chefs Table restaurants before they blew up, and this may have been an even better experience than some of those… so keep your eyes on this place. It’s certainly one that I want to stay hidden, so I can go back time and time again. We cannot say enough good things about the incredible, fun, knowledgeable staff. They specialize in unique local Austrian wines and hyper local meat/vegetable dishes, perfectly prepared. DO NOT MISS THIS - it was well worth the effort. A couple of dishes may or may not have brought us to tears (I promise it wasn’t the wine).

Do: There are so many gorgeous wineries to visit in Styria; you really cannot go wrong. We were there in the winter season, so things were certainly a bit quieter, but as our friends told us at Restaurant Broadmoar - people here are almost always willing to talk about and share their wines year round… just send them an email or a message on social media, and people tend to be thrilled to open their doors. Some wineries we wanted to visit and were told about often and will certainly see next time we are in town include Weingut und Buschenschenk Albert, Weingut Lackner-Tinnacher, Strohmeier, WeingutMuster, Weingut Werlitsch… and of course, Meinklang.

Notes: We easily drove to Styria from Graz, where we grabbed a Sixt rental car for about $40/day. Highly recommend this option for transportation, as you will want to be mobile! Europeans also care a LOT about making sure rental cars have adequate snow tires - so every car comes with studded tires in the winter. No worries there! Just be prepared to drive manual if you don’t otherwise specify :)

AMSTERDAM:

Stay: Eric Vokel Amsterdam Suites are our favorite place to stay aside from the Hoxton, which has been a favorite for years. We have recently been leaning towards more of apartment style stays, especially for longer trips where we want to feel some semblance of home, and Eric Vokel is exactly that, except better, because they help with breakfast, laundry needs, and have a front desk concierge who is ready and willing to help with any immediate needs. Not to mention they are literally two doors down from our favorite restaurant in the city, Choux. Eric Vokel can do no wrong!

View from our room terrace at Eric Vokel

Breakfast at Eric Vokel Amsterdam suites

Eat/Drink: Our favorite restaurant in town is without a doubt Choux, however there are many other honorable mentions. De Kas is a truly unique experience, as one of the pioneers of farm to table, though be sure to book well in advance. Hinata Ramen is our favorite cozy no-fuss ramen spot. Winkel43 is undeniably the best apple pie you’ll ever have in your life.

Do: Take a stroll in any of the parks. Westerpark and Vondelpark are our favorites. Also, a very niche off the beaten path experience known to locals but less so to tourists is a meal out at Vuurtorneiland, an old war bunker. You take a boat out from central Amsteram to a little island (thus the name Vuurtorneiland) and are treated to an absolutely delightful meal. This books up many months in advance so be sure to get your reservations in early, but it’s a special and worthwhile experience. In recent years, they have even opened up accommodations on the island, too, for those interested in staying!

Go eat bitterballen. Try a Brouwerij beer. Stroll the streets. Go to Foodhallen. We have a few other posts about best brown cafes in Amsterdam and other tips for staying like a local, so go click on those for a deeper dive!

Here’s our day by day itinerary for anyone desiring to follow similar / get a cadence of timing for each city:

Day 1-4 Oslo

(fly from Oslo to CPH)

Day 5-11 Copenhagen

(fly from CPH to Budapest)

Day 12-14 Budapest

(train from Budapest to Graz)

Day 15-17 Graz

(rent car and drive to Austrian alps)

Day 17-19 Austrian Alps

(drive from Austrian Alps to Styria via stops in Slovenia)

Day 19-21 Austria Styrian wine country

(fly to Amsterdam)

Day 21-23 Amsterdam

(fly home)

A Few Days in Mexico: the Cliff Notes on CDMX, Puerto Escondido, and the Mexican Volcanoes

April 21, 2024 Laura Lisowski

Where to stay: any of the Viadora properties are top notch; we stayed at Casa Cleo in Condesa and hope to visit the XOMA property in Roma the next time around! The best part about the Viadora properties is that it allows you to feel like you are living like a local. You’re greeted by a friendly face, have a fully functional kitchen, and the best way I can describe it as is that it “feels like home”. We greatly enjoyed sitting on the balcony in the mornings listening to the birds chirp whilst eating our healthy fresh fruits and muesli breakfast. There’s also a lot to be said for the ‘comfort’ factor of feeling safe in a big city away from home… Viadora offers all of this and then some, with a 24/7 front staff and doorman to ensure you enter/exit the property well. And honestly, another sleeper factor? Air conditioning. I’ve stayed in other hotels in CDMX on hot weeks of the year and their air conditioning was minimal at best… this is the real deal, and I slept like a (cool) baby every single night.

Other favorite stays are Ryo Kan, Habita Hotel, Hotel Carlota, The Wild Oscar, and Casa Pani.

Where to eat: Masala y Maiz and Meroma are consistently at the top of my list. Pujol is the classic recommendation for a top notch meal, but requires reservations many months in advance. Others to have on your radar are: Contramar, Tr3s, Havre77, Quintonil, Rosetta (their bakery is great for breakfast as well!), Cicatriz, Expendio de Maiz, Por siempra vegana, Comedor Jacinta, and lastly La Pitahaya Vegana for some incredible veggie tacos. Note that it is best to book ahead at all of these on OpenTable as they do fill up fast and many do not take walk ins!

Incredible natural wines at Masala y Maiz

And don’t forget to chase down a paleta or 2 or 10! My favorites are consistently the pistachio and oreo ones! Just type into Google ‘paleta near me’ and it won’t let you down. I speak from experience whenever the sweet tooth hits!

One of my favorite dining experiences in CDMX was also a secret one: Esquina Comun is a pop up lunch, where you have to message them for location right before. It is so very worth it, and an incredible experience! It was even featured in the NYTimes!

Lastly, a very special mention goes to LagoAlgo, which is a cultural center/restaurant posted up on a lake not too far from the Chapultepec Castle. This place boasts huge floor to ceiling windows and some of the most memorable chilaquiles we enjoyed on our trip. Very instagrammable, and a great little escape from the hustle and bustle of the city!

Where to drink: Loup Wine bar, Baltra Bar (one of the world’s best bars in 2023!), Parker and Lenox (jazz!), Handshake Bar. But honestly you can get a really great glass of wine or margarita at most places around town. It is Mexico, after all.

Bookstores: Be sure to check out all of the many bookstores in CDMX, or cafebrerias - they are fantastic in that bookstores commonly act as a ‘third place’ in CDMX so most have a full service cafe/restaurant in them and are a great place to open a laptop or a book and just spend an afternoonn. My favorites: Cafebreria El Pendulo, Biblioteca Vasconcelos, Libreria Porrua, Casa Bosques, and Under the Volcano Books in Condesa.

Some other cool stuff to see: Chapultepec Castle, Mooni art gallery, Esrawe studio, Mercado el 100, Arca Tierra, Decada, Tetetlan Cafe, Museo Tamayo.

Honorable mentions for weekend trips out of Mexico City of you get a chance/have the time: San Miguel de Allende (and stop in wine country along the way! You can either hire a car, or work with a tour company) and Valle de Bravo (book a stay at La Casa Rodavento and do not look back… it is incredible!)

And of course if you are *really* eager like yours truly, you can always climb the Mexican Volcanoes, with the grand finale as Pico de Orizaba! I wrote more about that trip here - and be sure to always hire a guide. I recommend Climbing the Seven Summits, always!

And if you are willing to hop on a quick plane ride from CDMX, do not sleep on surfer paradise Puerto Escondido! Stay at Casa TO, and explore all that the incredible town has to offer. But most importantly, take the serenity here as an excuse to relax!

Excellent restaurants in PE include: Atarraya, Glou Glou, Spirulina, Espadin Restaurant, Fauna Coffee & Resto, Cocofam, Chicama, Sativa, Mar Y Sol, Punta Vida, Bello Puerto, Cafe Losodeli.

Fresh squeezed juices abound in Puerto Escondido

Strolling the streets of Puerto Escondido

How to See the Best of Oregon Wine Country, Portland, and the Columbia River Gorge

November 22, 2023 Laura Lisowski

Oregon Wine Country

The first thing to be aware of with Oregon wine country is that everything is incredibly close - and so while I was tempted to curate the “ideal” driving trip for you, the truth is you can literally do whatever you want. Newberg, Dayton, Dundee, McMinnville, Carlton are the primary towns you won’t want to miss - and they are all 20-30 minutes away from each other max. Thought I would outline the towns below just for a quick view… 55 minutes if you were to drive them all consecutively. Not a huge trek, at all. Have at it, bounce around, go back and forth… so easy to do, we did it thrice!

WHERE TO STAY:

Inn the Ground (Carlton): A nine-room luxurious bed-and-breakfast built into the hillside of a regenerative agriculture farm in Carlton. This property was a labor of love by its owners, both sharing passions for regenerative farming and homesteading, and you can feel that love emanating through it’s walls. When we arrived late at night after a day of wine tasting in Newberg, we were weary and ready to tuck in, and Inn the Ground created the perfect place to unwind. Even at night, we walked into a burning toasty fire, a plethora of cookies and salty popcorn and other assorted snacks to choose from, and my favorite amenity: a massive bowl of uncracked walnuts to crack at a moment’s delight. There’s something so simple about holding one’s own food, even if just a 2 foot wide bowl of walnuts, and I happily cracked away well into the evening. Was I hungry? No. Was I having the time of my life? Absolutely.

The next morning was a treat, waking up and browsing around the stellar architecture of the Inn itself. We visited in November, so the leaves were still a vibrant shade of yellow, and a bald eagle paid us a visit as we walked the grounds with our morning coffee. We were given a wide selection of breakfast options paired with fresh scones and morning coffee as we peered out over the 440 acres of property belonging to the Ground (220 acres of which are pasture!) which we were about to explore.

The tour brought us all over the property where we learned how their animal stock has different roles for reinvigorating the old pastures. Cows graze the pastures, pigs till and rut the soil and then chickens come clear out the bugs and pests, thus keeping The Ground in a clean cycle of regeneration. They even have llamas guarding the chickens!

One of the most impressive feats we learned about is the water retention system. It was designed to take advantage of the natural slopes, ridges, creeks and even roads to maximize every droplet of water to refill the water table from the ground up. Here is a video explaining the depth of this project, which required the convincing of regulators to approve the project after it was complete!

Of note is that The Ground is not just restricted to the property on which we stayed; in fact, they are an evolving collection of destinations and experiences throughout Yamhill County, designed to help species connect in harmony with one another. If you’ve ever heard of the famous Tabula Rasa farm, or stopped in the Source farm stand in Oregon wine country, then you’ve been part of The Ground’s ethos and experience. You can learn more about all of their different accommodations here. I have no doubt that this is just the beginning of this endeavor for its owners Brenda and Frank.

Pigs on Korean style pen at Inn the Ground

Abbey Road Farm (Carlton): A working 82-acre farm, bed & breakfast, event venue and winery… so yes, it’s possible to do it all. I’ll admit: we weren’t quite sure what to expect when driving out to Abbey Road on a late rainy evening in November. Having stayed on some farms in the past which were “rustic” to put it nicely, we knew to expect different here - but not sure how different. We cruised up a tree-lined street adorned with holiday lights, and pulled up to our silo accommodations, also adorned with cute lights which made them easy to find as we worked our way through the dark night. We settled into our suite, aptly named the “Gamay” suite, which somebody must have secretly told Abbey Road is my favorite type of wine.

We awoke the next morning to a note that breakfast would be waiting for us just up the road, beyond the veggie patch. As I stepped out the door that morning, my eyes were filled with stunning shades of green, orange, yellow and red. Lots of oohs and ahhs and general feelings of delight emanated from our party as we strolled up the hill and said hello to our neighboring chicken and llama friends. Upon entering the breakfast room, we were greeted by Chef Andrew, who invited us to grab some coffee and take our seats so that our meal could begin. What followed for the next hour was an absolute surprise and delight: house made granola over fresh yogurt with stewed fruits, a raddichio salad with parmesan cheese and a citrus olive oil dressing, a fully gluten free (much appreciated by me!) homemade chicken and waffles with a maple cream reduction. I wanted to stop myself, but I couldn’t. Each dish was unique and yet also simple in showcasing the region’s God-given ingredients. I’ll be thinking about that meal for a long time to come, and it redefined what is possible for *breakfast*!

Don’t sleep on Abbey Road’s wine tastings! We made sure to pop by the tasting room on our second night staying at the farm and enjoyed some beautifully complex pinots and especially enjoyed their Chardonnay.

Incredible raddichio salad with olive oil citrus dressing - for breakfast!

Unique light fixtures in silos at Abbey Road

Chicken and waffles, gluten free with a maple & cream sherry reduction at Abbey Road Farms

Wine tasting before dinner at the on site tasting room

Chicken, turkey, peacock friends at Abbey Road Farms

The Alison Inn and Spa (Newberg): I have not yet had the privilege to stay here but have heard many, many incredible things, especially with their on site vineyards, spa, and renowned restaurant Dory.

WHERE TO EAT:

Humble Spirit (McMinnville): A classy and cozy restaurant associated with Inn the Ground and Tabula Rasa. All dishes are a celebration of Williamette Valley’s ingredients. We were especially impressed with their perfectly cooked carrots and from-the-farm-right-up-the-road pork. They also had an incredible wine and cocktail selection which paired perfectly given it all hails from the same region.

Red Hills Market (Dundee): Open 8am to 8pm daily, this is one of the coolest local markets I’ve ever been to. We desperately needed some incredible and hearty food after a day turned evening of wine tasting, and popped into Red Hills, where we were able to not only pick up a snickerdoodle cookie for my sweet tooth, a final night cap bottle of red, but also some hearty food: the “Famous Roast Beef” sandwich and “Autumn Love” pizza have been heavy topics of conversation since they were consumed back at our hotel that evening. My only regret is not actually staying at the market to enjoy our food, as the vibes were high and people seemed to be truly enjoying themselves and the atmosphere. We already plan to go back in a few weeks, and I’d be lying if I didn’t say it was largely driven by our drive to try more things on the menu. Lastly, I always feel it important to mention when you have a really great experience with people and waitstaff, too, and Red Hills did not disappoint. Both the owners and the folks running ops and day to day operations were incredibly friendly, helpful, and ensured we ordered something that would fill our bellies and hearts with glee. Take a look at their menu yourself and we dare you not to drool!

Brick Hall (Dayton): A historic church in Dayton has been beautifully restored and is now a restaurant and event space called Brick Hall 1886. This restaurant is an absolute must, but be aware they are only open Saturday - Monday (and hopefully Fridays soon, too!)

Another hugely important part of Brick Hall are its people. We were the first ones in for a 4:30pm reservation (I may have wanted to catch the last light of the day to be able to showcase/photograph the food properly) and had a chance to hang out with the wait staff and Chef Nick. Upon arriving home from the trip, we reflected that Chef Nick was the person we both appreciated most of everyone we met while traveling during our trip and the reason was clear: he cared… something which can be hard to find in the hospitality industry these days. He was eager to tell us about his process, the background behind the pickling jars on the shelves near the kitchen (when asked how to find the bathroom, he replied with a smirk “hang a right at the pickles”), and ensure we ordered something we loved. It’s rare to find someone like him, but explains so much about the wild success and popularity of Brick Hall.

Also of note, one of our favorite communities, Tournant PDX, known for their seasonal farm-to-fire cooking, immersive dining experiences, and workshops, co-hosts events at Brick Hall. We had just missed an oysters event the weekend prior, and a Croatian dinner feast was happening on the day we left Dayton. Tournant are creating something really special and immersive in Oregon communities, so it’s of no surprise that they have found a true collaborative partner with a shared vision in Brick Hall.

Toast with ricotta and all the roasted farm fresh vegetables at Brick Hall

Outside of Brick Hall, a church built in 1866 (check Erick)

Indoor views at Brick Hall, a former church which has been restored

Wooden Heart (Dundee): Wooden Heart is a fully operable mobile, wood fired kitchen in an adorable 1964 Kenskill camp trailer serving up delicious, creative, gourmet pizzas. It is parked daily at Furioso Vineyards making it the an awesome stop for a quick but filling lunch while wine tasting. Started by married team, and Valley culinary-scene veterans, Ryan + Yvette Clark, Wooden Heart reflects their passion for great food and their love for all things local.

Ruddick/Wood (Newberg): Farm-to-table restaurant and tavern on Newberg's main street

Dos Mundos: Incredible tacos as a quick stop off after wine tasting on 99W.

JORY at The Allison Inn & Spa (Newberg): Contained within the stunning Allison Inn & Spa the JORY is very instagrammable and rumor has it the Benedicts are great, but the biscuits are a must! Farm to table style meal.

Carlton Bakery (Carlton): French-style bakery that feels like you’ve stepped into the Montmartre in Paris, conveniently located on Carlton's main street. A great place to get a little sandwich in the belly before heading down to Flaneur wines for a tasting.

Car views of the wonderful French-inspired Carlton Bakery

WHERE TO DRINK/WINE TASTE:

Nicolas Jay (Newberg): A heavily French influenced vineyard (Nicolas is French, Jay is Cali-American turned Oregon obsessed). Book a tasting and you won’t regret it. My favorite reds were their L’Ensemble and our greatest surprise was the uniqueness of their Chardonnay. As someone who has lived many years in the Bay Area in a past life and done many a Napa wine tasting involving a buttery Chard, this was a lovely surprise and opened my eyes to the variety available beyond the buttery Chard you may have become used to. The tasting team / staff were also incredible to learn from and interact with and you could see the passion in their eyes for the Nicolas Jay story. They even inspired us to sign up for a volunteer list for next year’s harvest, so catch us out there stomping grapes!

I would be remiss if I didn’t give a shout out to Taste Newberg here as well (Hi Kayt!), as they and their app were a great resource for helping us find the best spots in wine country. Highly recommend using their website, taking a look at some of the suggested itineraries, and then using their Plan My Visit feature here.

Looking into tasting room and cellar of Nicolas Jay

Great space for large parties at Nicolas Jay

Artist Block (Dundee): Two words: holy shit! I’d say my wine tastes are either traditional French Gamays, or funky natural organic new age wines - either orange or chilled reds, and this place exceeded all of our expectations. We were fortunate enough to also meet the owner, Anna Sweet, and learn a bit about the winemaker (the only woman Master Somm in the PNW… we stan a successful queen!), and were very intrigued and enthralled by their vision. Not only is this beautiful space set in the Dundee Hills an incredible venue to enjoy some of the best wines around, but it also boasts a 2000 sq ft art gallery, inspires one’s creative juices by way of events and art, and creates a real communal gathering “third” place in a place where I think one is still needed. Our only regret is missing the screening of The Big Lebowski the night after we left.

As a fellow ex-pat myself (the owner’s former city residencies which she called home may be longer than mine), it’s sometimes hard to figure out where you belong in a place like Oregon, but they are taking risks and trying new things and we love them for it. The natural wines are some of the best I’ve ever tasted, truly, but the idea and concept is something to admire.

They also do a great job of curating community and events in the Dundee Hills community so it’s worth checking to see what’s upcoming when you are planning a visit.

Incredible art and vibes in Artist Block

Inviting and cozy nordic vibe exterior at Artist Block

Flâneur Winery (Carlton): One of the most interesting places we’ve visited in Oregon with impeccable wines and a one-of-a-kind venue (built in a heavily renovated old grain mill!). They also run many wine educational events, host enchanting dinner parties, and have the kindest staff around. Flaneur crafts site-specific & vintage-driven Oregon wines from their estate vineyards in the Ribbon Ridge and Chehalem Mountain AVAs.

I’m not sure if I have ever been so aligned with a winery ethos before either. Do you know what a Flâneur is? I didn’t either. But once I read the way they define flaneur and their brand, on the walls of their tasting room, I was sold, and knew I’d be a forever fan.

A flâneur is, quite simply, a leisurely wanderer, a worldly explorer, a connoisseur of life. The word, hailing from 19th-century France, captures the idea that the mind functions best at a slow pace, and that curiosity can uncover a life of significance. It is, as Charles Baudelaire wrote so eloquently, a life of juxtaposition: alone yet surrounded by bustle, slow yet continuously moving forward.

For the perfect flâneur, for the passionate spectator, it is an immense joy to set up house in the heart of the multitude, amid the ebb and flow of movement, in the midst of the fugitive and the infinite. To be away from home and yet to feel oneself everywhere at home.
-Charles Baudelaire, “The Painter of Modern Life”

We consider ourselves to be flâneurs at our core, passionate artisans joined together by the desire to slow down, observe the world, and create delicious wines.

At Flaneur Wines we live by the idea that some of the best things in life are uncovered without intention, and that life—like a good wine—should be enjoyed and appreciated.

Sign. Us. Up.

View of silos from inside Flaneur’s tasting room

Wolves & People Brewery (Newberg): Small batch beers in a 100 year old barn, need we say more?

Big Table Farm (Carlton): By appointment only tastings; Big Table Farm started as a collaboration between a winemaker and an artist growing and producing what they love to eat and drink. Over time, Big Table Farm has become a point of connection for so many to share wine made by hand with the food and people around your table. Big Table Farm Atelier is the 'studio' where the big table family works and shares wine. The atelier is Clare's working art studio and a beautiful new 'in town' location. This is a historic feed store in the heart of wine county in down town Carlton where one can experience wine, art, and the full creative process.

OTHER THINGS TO DO:

Third Street Books (McMinnville): A very charming bookstore located on Main street.

Charming Third Street Books in downtown McMinnville

Strolling as the sun sets on a rainy evening in McMinnville

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum (McMinnville): One of the world’s best and home to the Spruce Goose, well worth the price of admission for the Spruce Goose alone! The museum is an independent, 501 non-profit, aviation museum in McMinnville, Oregon. Its exhibits include the Hughes H-4 Hercules and an impressive collection of more than fifty military and civilian aircraft, unmanned aerial vehicles, and spacecraft. There’s an entire aviation wing, and an entire space wing, and there are even about 20 planes adorning the grounds outside the museum for those that only have time for a drive by. The museum was built by Evergreen Aviation founder Del Smith in 1999 and 2000 and remains an icon for the region, though has since been purchased by Bill Stoller, owner of Stoller Family Estate, who saved the museum from liquidation following Smith’s death in 2014. “It’s preservation of the history; it’s preservation of the people who took part in piloting those planes and in working in the museum, and all that they’ve done,” Stoller said upon the acquisition. The Evergreen Museum is lucky to have an owner whose heart is in the right place.

Walking the floors of Evergreen taking it all in

Wes Anderson like entry into Evergreen Aviation Museum

Planes overhead at Evergreen Aviation Museum

PORTLAND AREA

First things first: there are an endless amount of things to do in Portland area, from hiking to exploring to eating to your hearts content, to catching a show at one of the many small, cool and quirky live music venues in town. I saw SYML at Revolution Hall on this trip, and Finneas at the Crystal Ballroom on another trip and both shows were amongst some of the best I’ve ever seen live. Highly recommend googling your planned Portland dates ahead of the trip to see if there are any good shows on (there almost always are).

For brevity’s sake, this is primarily food and wine focused as we only had a couple quick days in town - but we hit some of the best spots and have visited a few other honorable mentions below on previous trips, and can full heartedly recommend you check out each and every one of these reccs.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Vance: perfectly located in the Cultural district, walkable to virtually everything (we didn’t move our car the entire trip, and simply walked or Ubered everywhere). When we first arrived to our room, we were delighted by the scenic views outside our window, and then focused our eyes on the abundantly spacious and clean room itself. The amenities were well appointed, and there was more than enough room for 2 of us to spread out and get some work done, chat, and relax in our own space. The bathroom was clean, the water pressure and temperature was divine, and the crab tiling in the shower wall gave me a chuckle every time I looked its direction.

Fun fact: the cafe BEASTRO downstairs is owned by Marshawn Lynch, and based on our firsthand experience, Marshawn knows his coffee!

Full cafe at Hotel Vance, owned by Marshawn Lynch

Happy Hour at Hotel Vance with neighborhood views

Hoxton Hotel: A very hip and stylish home base for Portland explorations. Having stayed in many of the Hoxton’s European locations for business and pleasure over the years, it’s a brand I’ve come to rely on and relish in when traveling. This hotel is 119 rooms and offers aesthetically pleasing views in every corner, not to mention several incredible restaurant (Lovely Rita and Tope) and cafe options.

WHERE TO EAT:

Andina: A taste of Peru in the Pacific Northwest. An establishment that has been around since 2003. Don’t miss out on the empanadas, orange wine, and my personal favorite, the humita. Incredible!

An assortment of incredible Peruvian dishes at Andina

Lilia Comedor: New York Times listed the top 50 restaurants in the U.S. this year and Lilia Comedor was one of 3 Oregon restaurants on the list. Does it live up to its reputation? Absolutely. This restaurant feels like you plucked one of the top Mexico City restaurants and placed it in PDX. Highly seasonal, highly personal, and incredibly fresh. You’ll just have to go see it for yourself.

Mediterranean Exploration Company: Upscale Mediterranean in an industrial chic setting. The carrots were our favorite dish with the kebabs in a close second.

Lamb hummus at Mediterranean Exploration Co

Beautifully seasoned carrots at Mediterranean Exploration Co

Tope: Perched at the top of the Hoxton hotel, Tope is trendy, and offers stunning rooftop views of Mt Hood on a clear day. Stellar orange wines and ceviche. Don’t sleep on the mezcal here!

Tusk: Middle Eastern and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine highlighting seasonal produce of the Pacific Northwest.

Harlow: A phenomenal and cute organic healthy food café which I make a habit of stopping at every time I’m in Portland. I cannot emphasize enough how many times their made-in-front-of-your-eyes carrot ginger freshly pressed juices have saved me from a mid afternoon crash.

Coquine: Cozy corner kitchen serving polished, farm-to-table New American dinners & casual cafe fare by day, located on the corner of SE 69th and Belmont, at the top of an extinct volcano, in Portland's beautiful Mount Tabor neighborhood.

Morchella: A modern American restaurant in the Irving district of Portland OR dedicated to seasonal foraged and wild foods.

Café Olli: A truly all-day cafe with great pastries, sandwiches, pizza and more, focused on local seasonal ingredients. Nearly hidden on NE MLK so keep your eyes peeled!

Gado Gado: Trendy and busy hangout with pan-Asian & Dutch-Indonesian offerings, plus specialty cocktails. A fun read on them here.

Luce: Petite, low-key Italian restaurant and grocery serving housemade pastas & seasonal entree, feels like you’ve stepped into a Parisian cafe.

Canard: Canard, opened by Gabriel Rucker and Andrew Fortgang of Le Pigeon (right next door), is an all day café/restaurant by day, and wine and cocktail bar by night featuring what the kitchen calls wild French-inspired bar food. World renowned for good reason.

Proud Mary Cafe: Hip Aussie-style cafe in an industrial-chic space offering craft coffee, breakfast & smoothies, in the Alberta district.

Millennial avocado toast with beans and poached egg at Proud Mary Cafe

Banh Mi on fresh bread at Proud Mary cafe

PASTRIES/DESSERT:

Kate’s Ice Cream: seriously great plant-based & gluten-free ice cream made in Portland, OR.

Eb & Bean: Amazing dairy free and gluten free frozen yogurt, with interesting rotating flavors. I tried tahini, chocolate walnut brownie, and apple pie and the combination was divine. Check out their latest menu here.

Cosmic Bliss: Delicious, sustainable, and organic plant-based & grass-fed ice cream in Portland's Pearl District. Good for the planet, good for you, good for dairy and gluten sensitive folks. Win, win, win.

Maurice PDX: A Scandinavian influenced modern pastry luncheonette in a tiny all white dining room. Go ahead and check out their Instagram and tell us you aren’t swooning and planning a visit immediately.

Gluten Free Gem: An independent, family run bakery located in Portland’s Lloyd District. Owner Anne Miller started baking gluten free at Corbett Coffee Plant in 2006 when her daughter was first diagnosed with Celiac Disease. By April of 2011, the bakery had outgrown its SW Corbett location and moved to N. Hancock St. With this move came a name change, to celebrate the original Gems: Anne’s daughters Greta and Emma Miller.

Cinnamon sugar donut and cardamom pear cake at Gluten Free Gem

New Cascadia Traditional: an incredible all gluten free, celiac safe bakery. Take away cinnamon rolls or cinnamon raisin loaf!

Takeaway maple bar and cinnamon raisin bread from New Cascadia

WHERE TO DRINK:

Bar West: Locally sourced, organic dishes, brunch & cocktails offered in a modern spot with a covered patio.

Grape Ape: A 700 sq ft bottle shop and bar. Having opened in 2023, they are fresh, innovative, and totally killing the unique / funky / interesting wines game. I happened to walk into here on November 16th, the official beaujolais nouveau day in France, and was greeted with a stellar beaujolais option to go with the day - it did not disappoint! We were also entertained by some of their whimsical chardonnays and light but interesting reds, and certainly enjoyed our charcuterie board and roasted cauliflower which were all prepared in house. Would go back, 10/10.

Bar Diane: Located in the posh Northwest Alberta district, this has quickly become a new favorite both for the wines and ambiance. With the entrance in a back alley, this is a cool hideaway with a patio presenting a large wine list, plus cocktails, small plates & local bites.

OTHER PLACES TO CHECK OUT:

Bookstores, bookstores, bookstores! Of course, you can’t go wrong by spending an entire day roaming around the classic Powell Bookstore, but there are so many others worth checking out as well, especially for those with niche interests. Also loved walking into Daedalus Books in the Northwest Portland district.

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE

WHERE TO STAY:

ArtBliss Boutique Hotel: A stunning and private getaway on the other side of the river from Hood River, perched up on a slope in Stevenson, WA. Every detail is attended to with precision, and one can even enjoy an outdoor bubble bath in the privacy of one’s own cabin backyard. A great option if you’re OK with not staying right in Hood River or White Salmon but want some privacy while still being close to the action. Artbliss is labor of love and a collaboration between Stevenson locals Tom Sikora and Tabatha Wiggins. Long time Stevenson locals, the two take pride in their community and love being able to share that love with others. Tom is a professional photographer and cinematographer having artwork in featured in galleries and publications has covered hundreds of weddings and corporate events. Tabatha is the Owner of Walking Man Brewing, a pillar of the Stevenson downtown district – known for brewing unique craft beers, serving amazing food and hosting unique events for over two decades. Together Tom & Tabatha (and many friends and professionals from the community) designed and built the cabins from the ground up!

Society Hotel Bingen: Set in a former school in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, this trendy hotel off Route 14 is a 13-minute walk from the riverfront. It’s a place that is so fun to hang out in, with plenty of amenities to go around, that you are tempted to actually never explore beyond it’s front door. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Cafe and library at Society Hotel Bingen

Getaway Mt Adams: Set in Glenwood, WA, Getaway Mount Adams outpost is a quick drive from Portland, offering plenty of scenic spots to explore. If you’re looking for a stunning drive across the Gorge and a bit of an escape out of Wifi service, this is your place. An amazing venue to go alone for a reading weekend or with friends and goodies to throw on your grill, whilst walking around the forest. Spectacular views of Mt Adams flirt with you right down the street.

WHERE TO EAT:

Solstice Wood Fire Pizza: Great option to eat in or take away! Made with plenty of local ingredients and super fresh with great gluten free options.

Takeaway Tonya Wrap from Farm Stand in the Gorge

Hood River Common House: An awesome bottle shop and venue for hanging out with a cider, just hope that it isn’t closed for a private event, as it has become a very popular venue for private parties!

Dog River Coffee: Excellent place for remote workers wanting to hang out in a cool, rustic space with great coffee and people watching, a local favorite.

Farm Stand in the Gorge: An incredible place to snag sandwiches for breakfast or to take on your day’s adventure. Old school deli style with plenty of breakfast or regular sandwiches, hot or cold, and at reasonable prices for the Gorge.

Pine Street Bakery: Casual local bakery preparing its own baked goods as well as a range of lunch & breakfast dishes. The cinnamon rolls and berry muffins are unfussy and unbeatable.

Apple cake and cinnamon roll at Pine Street Bakery

Fresh cinnamon rolls at Pine Street bakery

WHERE TO DRINK:

Hiyu Wine Farm: Hiyu Wine Farm's rustic wood, low-slung tasting room sits nestled unobtrusively against a small hillside among a riot of wildflowers. Their wines are by far our favorite from the Columbia River Gorge, and I think the secret is starting to get out about Hiyu as they have recently been featured by some major publications. I hope to keep it a secret for as long as I can, but will tell you, dear reader, it is fantasic.

Conde Nast Traveler describes Hiyu better than I ever could:

Hiyu Wine Farm’s rustic wood, low-slung tasting room sits nestled unobtrusively against a small hillside among a riot of wildflowers. It’s like a half-hidden log you might come upon while walking through a meadow, one that invites you to take a seat. Step inside, however, and the space feels far more spacious than it seemed from the outside. It’s one big, expansive, wide-open room, with an open kitchen set toward the back, and distinct seating areas throughout—romantic two-tops on one wall, a long communal table with benches on another, a fireplace flanked with cozy chairs off to the side. The décor reflects the winery’s biodynamic ethos, lots of rustic, reclaimed and repurposed and natural materials. Even the watercolor-like mural of vines and leaves looks like a detail lifted from one of the labels on the bottles. In summer, the outdoor patio is the place to be, a pocket of a side yard strewn with tables under shade sails that flap gently in the wind, beautifully unkempt vines stretching up the hill on one side and wild berry brambles and pollinator-friendly flowers filling in the other.

The wines here are complex, elegant, aromatic, and always a surprise. Bottles don’t hold just one varietal, they can hold nearly a dozen, depending on what’s growing in that particular block. They’re not meant to be pure expressions of one particular grape, they’re much more complex than that. That’s why they’re simply labeled “red wine” or “white wine” and named after the vineyards. Consider the Eventyr block, a half-acre site that grows vines of Blaufrankisch, Kadarka, Pignolo, Schiopettino, Corvina, Gamay, Vugava, and several clones of heirloom Zinfandel. It all goes into one bottle. Clearly, you can nerd out on obscure varietals all you want here—or just sit back and enjoy them.

Soča Wine Shop & Bar: Well, this place feels like tripping and falling into heaven. The most incredible wine selection in the state of Oregon, without a doubt, and an incredible ambiance both in and out. Order up tapas style dishes and a fantastic wine, and take it out onto their outdoor patio where there is often outdoor music, and always incredible views. Not to be missed!

Burrrata with the fixings and a mineraly white at Soca

Wy’East Vineyards: Wy'East Vineyards produces hand crafted wines from estate grown Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grapes & also sources fruit from top notch vineyards in the region. From the harvest, crush and barrel aging — it all takes place at their facility. The Wy’East tasting room’s patio is an ideal setting for a glass of wine and a picnic lunch while overlooking the east hills, a humble waterfall and pond. And of course, watching the llamas graze the yard is a cherry on top!

Marchesi Vineyards: Marchesi grows exceptional Italian varietals from the foothills of Mt. Hood. The splendid snow capped peak is reminiscent of Northern Italy, where Marchesi’s owner, Franco Marchesi, was born and raised. Like Northern Italy, the spectacular Columbia River Gorge provides the rich soil and perfect climate that gives their wines minerality, flavor, and depth. Marchesi’s specialties are Barbera, Dolcetto, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Nero. Sitting in their outdoor tasting room felt reminiscent of many afternoons spent sipping bubbly whites in the Dolomites. Like!

Mt Hood Winery: Mt. Hood Winery offers a broad selection of wines and Mt. Hood views and is located just five minutes south of downtown Hood River. On one side, you get views of Mt Hood. On the other patio, you get views of Mt Adams. How could one ever complain? Definitely a place to go for the views more than anything, but the wines hold up as well for the more classic wine appreciator.

View of Mt Hood winery tasting room, with Mount Adams in the distance

WHERE TO EXPLORE:

Draper Girls Country Farm: The forty-acre property sits along highway 35 near the town of Parkdale, where, on a clear day, it feels like front row seats to a panorama of Mt. Hood. Live music, goats, U-Pick flowers, apples and pears, hot cider, apple cider donuts. Plus loads of artisanal goods and vintage items for sale. One of my favorite stops on the drive from Portland to Bend.

Tamanawas Falls hike: One of the best in the area albeit ever so slightly touristy in the ‘on’ season. Be sure to snag a permit before you get here as you will need one to park in the lot on the side of the road. Tamanawas Falls forms a broad curtain where Cold Spring Creek thunders over a 110-foot lava cliff near the eastern base of Mount Hood. This hike along scenic Cold Spring Creek has been a traditional trek for families and can be enjoyed any time of the year with the right preparation. The waterfall is reduced to a thin veil in late summer and fall, but summer wildflowers and fall colors make the hike up the creek a worthy excursion. It's possible to see the falls in winter, when the spray freezes over and forms a massive ice grotto in the amphitheater, but snowshoes may be required.

Tamanawas Falls with my cute doggo, River

Western Aero Museum: The Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum is located in Hood River, Oregon, United States, adjacent to the Ken Jernstedt Memorial Airport. WAAAM is a nonprofit 501 organization committed to the preservation of, and education about aviation, automobile, and other historic transportation-related relics.

Laurance Lake hike: This trail provides an incredible view of Laurance Lake. The trail is fairly open, leading to some great views of Mt. Hood and the surrounding area. The hike begins on the shores of the crystal-clear Laurance Lake—in and of itself a fantastic destination for swimming and SUPping. After crossing the dam, the trail begins climbing in earnest, switchbacking back and forth as it winds its way up a steep-sided ridge. The hiking is very aerobic in the first section, and a few rocky bits and steep ascents could prove tricky to the uninitiated. Yet with reasonable fitness, you'll press ahead, and make for the ridgeline.

Upon arriving at the ridge, you'll, unfortunately, find yourself shrouded in trees. The grade mellows out, though, the trail rolling up and down as it continues to ascend along the top of the ridge. Occasional views toward Mount Adams will open up through the trees, but Mount Hood remains obscured. Keep hiking until the end of this route, as mapped. Here, you'll find a break in the trees, and the promised unobstructed vistas of Mount Hood will open up grandly before you! About 6.5 miles RT.

Columbia River Gorge Scenic Highway: A stunning scenic route to or fro Portland from Hood River, the scenic highway offers stunning views of the gorge as well as the largest concentration of high waterfalls in North America. You’ve likely seen Multnomah Falls all over Instagram, and it’s even prettier in person, and has a stunning wood lodge beneath it where you can enjoy a chili while taking in the views from your fireside perch.