Slovenia, Cormòns Italy and La Subida

Our adventure originated unexpectedly: with a weeknight’s viewing of Netflix’s Chef’s Table…

For us, this innovative documentary series has already resulted in three different restaurant reservations in three very different locations so far (Slovenia, Sweden, and Chile)… and they are often made impulsively during the 45 – 60 minute period of watching the show.

(*hint NFLX – this is an obvious ecommerce tie–in)

In the case of Slovenia and Italy, we were already aware of the region’s natural beauty, but had not really focused at all on the very high quality and distinct food and wine options that were available and equally worth traveling for.  As we watched the episode profiling Ana Roš we intuitively knew that a trip to Kobarid was required and an email to the reservations team at Hiša Franko was sent. 

The perfect foundation to a trip, and an excellent meal was had (the week after we made our reservation Ana was named world's best female chef for 2017 – timing is everything) as we enjoyed Ana’s unique take on reinventing traditional regional dishes of the Soča valley area.

However -  the trip expanded further when we learned a bit later in the episode that Ana and her husband had frequently visited, and were in part inspired by, another restaurant which was just across the border in Italy: La Subida.  “My husband brought me to that restaurant and it would make my heart race,” said Ana, of La Subida. It was at La Subida where Ana’s love and talent for creative food began.

“Let’s drink more shall we!?” was the jocular question posed to us near the end of a thoroughly enjoyable meal and experience at that very restaurant, La Subida, which sits just outside of Cormons Italy and situated on the border with Slovenia.

La Subida is not only a restaurant, but also a rural residence where people come to get away.  It is an entirely unique destination, capturing that ‘country elegance’ or ‘rustic luxury’ that so many properties today attempt (and fail) to manufacture or conjure up from new facilities, while here it is done effortlessly.

While known for years for its restaurant Trattoria Al Cacciatore;  La Subida is now embarking on an effort to refine their image as a destination… spoken best by their own website: “a place where one goes to feel well, relax, stay on a little to unwind!”

The Sirk family is essentially welcoming you in to their country home, opened in 1960 as an inn and osteria, and now a Michelin starred (but this is not necessarily promoted…more accepted humbly) facility with an eclectic-in-a-very-good-way group of dwellings that go by the charming and appropriate names: Countryside, Grandma’s, Of the Wood, Of the Vinegar Factory, The Barn (Kozovci), and The Nest.  There is also no question about the main focus of the area when handed the key to your cottage: wine is what makes the world go round in this region.

Trattoria Al Cacciatore

Everything about our accommodations just felt comfortable, from when we arrived and were asked to sit on the courtyard sofa with a glass of sparkling and a local cheese snack before Mitja provided us with an overview of their property and the region, to enjoying the scenery from the terrace of the Osteria with a glass of the local Friuliano white wine (we found a preference for those from the Collio region of Friuli) to exploring the property and the neighbouring countryside before just relaxing and noting just how quiet it is in this part of the world at night.

Then there is the food – thoroughly authentic and based on local cuisine (and hyper local produce) but at the same time refined with little touches and bursts of flavor – and a palate cleansing course of vinegar sorbet from their own on-site wine vinegar factory of which I could have easily had seconds (or thirds). 

La Subida Vinegar Factory

Having eaten the evening prior at Hisa Franko, this was the perfect follow up to that dining event.  The two restaurants are connected by produce, wine, people, and history which is evident but at the same time a very different experience. That sense of rustic luxury again evident in the casual tenor and flow of the meal without any sacrifice on quality – again, in a completely comfortable, almost understated atmosphere.

For all the beauty of the Collio / Cormons area, scores of adventures and visual treats are available just across the border… all within a 90 minute to 2 hour striking distance from La Subida which allows you to travel from the vineyards to the snowy peaks of Slovenia (we started our trip in the mountain passes of Kranjska Gora) over the milky turquoise rivers of Slovenia and back in one day if you wish – further enhancing one’s stay in this sometimes overlooked but remarkably attractive part of the world.

We cannot wait to return.

Casa de la Flora - Khao Lak Thailand

“Many of my community were lost in the tsunami that year… we had not had a tsunami in our lifetime, and only knew a very big wave was coming quickly” explained our guide of the 2004 Thailand earthquake that claimed the lives of over 200,000 coastal inhabitants in 2004, an estimated 8,000 of which were in Thailand.  “We ran to high ground early that morning, and then came back to town late in the day after the waves. I looked up to see one of my closest friends up high, hugging a tree, he had been there all day long – he was crying, he was afraid to come down, and also had lost his father… it was a very sad day”.

I’m a firm believer in the fact that to fully appreciate beauty and goodness, one must also acknowledge and respect the bad, and the sometimes unavoidable tragedies of life.  Visiting Khao Lak for the first time, and sitting on an unspoiled, unnamed “hidden beach” with our Casa de la Flora guide, it’s hard to believe that a place with such appeal and beauty could have been so unexpectedly struck with a monster in the form of a 33 foot wave only 13 years prior.  It’s almost impossible to imagine what it would have been like to be sitting seaside with a coconut in hand, the only concern for that day being what variety of curry to make for dinner, only to be swept away by the Andaman Sea.  While a distant memory, or even worse – a forgotten event – for many visitors to the area today)  it was an unparalleled tragedy and has certainly changed this region of Thailand.

It is necessary to revisit these events as the experience and new luxury of Khao Lak are framed by the context of these stories: from the destruction emerges a tale about survival, community, and ultimately, allowing tragedy to rouse the process of rebuilding and starting anew – creating a place that is not better, not worse, but simply different.

After receiving our rental car keys under a red pool umbrella adorned with the classic Avis logo, with the humming of a distant local Thai band playing outdoors in the distance, we were on our way to Khao Lak.  Khao Lak sits about 1.5 hours, or around 55 miles north of Phuket International Airport and requires a focused drive as you weave through hundreds of mopeds, daredevil roadside dogs, and myriads of mom and pop pineapple stands. 

The fact that Khao Lak is relatively unheard of as opposed to the almost ubiquitous (and hedonistic) Phuket is exactly what gives it its charm.  The area itself is a little rough around the edges, lined with clothing stands and local Thai food bazaars, some abandoned bars and buildings (and others that just look abandoned but come alive at night); but it feels more real than its alternative.  In Khao Lak, you can truly experience Thailand as the locals know it.

Casa de la Flora takes you by surprise.  It’s modern, sleek appearance would be astounding even if stumbled upon in the middle of a posh part of Miami or NYC.  The highly sophisticated and thoughtful design contrasted to the laid back town and undeveloped pristine beaches makes its guests feel like they can enjoy a luxurious stay without sacrificing taking part in the local attractions and culture. 

We spent 3 days at Casa de la Flora, during which we tried to indulge in everything the resort had to offer both on and off campus.  After enjoying all the dragon fruit and fresh juice we could eat at breakfast the very first full day in paradise, we partook in a Thai cooking class with one of the hotel’s senior chefs.  “One or two spoons fish sauce? You remember?” chirped the senior hotel chef tasked with teaching us how to make our own Thai lunch for the day.  “You like spicy or Thai spicy?”

The hotel arranged for each of us to have our own cooking station, so we could own the preparation process of our own food from start to finish.   Two hours later, we had learned about all the local Thai spices, and had heaping portions of our own Tom Yum Goong and Pha-Naeng Neua to enjoy.  We also were armed with ample information as to what spices we would need to buy at the local market that evening, in order to recreate the dishes once we arrived back home (indeed, we did end up buying all of the spices, and look forward to making our own Thai feast in London).

The following day, we headed to the Secret Beach we discussed earlier.  Casa de la Flora seemed to have every single detail thought through on this trip.  We jumped onto a boat at Casa de la Flora’s sister hotel just down the street, and quickly were sized up for snorkel gear and given the agenda for the day: we were to first go snorkelling in the crystal blue waters off the coast of a beach just 15 minutes from the hotel, where we would be dropped off and given about 45 minutes to observe the plentiful tropical fish and corals.  Next, we would hop back in our boat and head to a pristine No-Name Beach, where we would be free to spend the next couple of hours exploring water holes, climbing rocks, eating lunch under a makeshift shelter, and swimming in the warm crystal blue waters.  We even learned about the local culture and fruits; including the way in which cashews grow and are harvested – and even got to try some cashew juice from the tree for ourselves!

The ride back from this day-long adventure in the sun was absolutely unforgettable as I consumed local fruit, refreshing drinks, and felt the Thai breeze whipping through my hair as we raced back to the hotel, where we were dropped off beach-side.

For our final day, we simply opted to just be, and not try to do too much. We relaxed, we indulged in all of the breakfast food options possible (you can eat until you drop, which we were big fans of), and opted to skip lunch in anticipation of the special dinner that was planned for our final evening.  While every dinner 

table at Casa de la Flora comes with a view, there is one exceptional option for guests looking for an extra unique and private experience: a private rooftop dinner for 2, complete with its own private chef and staff.  We were treated to an absolutely indulgent seafood platter complete with many of other courses and fine wines to pair.  

Casa de la Flora offers an absolutely unforgettable Thailand experience where you can get a heaping of real local culture, appreciate uninterrupted tourist-free views and experiences, and eat to your heart’s delight.  We would recommend this place to adventurers of all ages and to all who have a great appreciation for a special kind of travel experience.

The Patagonia International Marathon & EcoCamp in Torres del Paine National Park

I see skies of blue and clouds of white, the bright blessed day, the sacred night

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

The colors of the rainbow so pretty in the sky, are also on the faces of people going by.

I see friends shaking hands, saying how do you do.

They’re really saying… I love you.

And I think to myself… what a wonderful world.

Around mile 13 a fellow marathoner caught up to the pack of runners I was in, smirking knowingly as he turned up his handheld speaker which so fittingly emitted Louis Armstrong’s ‘It’s a Wonderful World’.  I looked over, laughed, and even slightly shook my head, knowing that as cliché of a moment as it was, it was one that would surely stick with me for years to come. 

This wonderful world indeed seemed to whiz by me in a blur as I finished the back half of the Patagonia International Marathon, the tune seemingly serving as a temporary remedy to help me overcome the endless stretches of painfully beautiful hills, a glaring reminder of the long training runs I hadn’t done back home in London.  I crossed the finish line, taking mental snapshots of as many views of Los Cuernos as possible while trying to regain my breath.  I shook hands with fellow finishers.  I searched for the nearest apple or sandwich. 

I looked around and absorbed every single thing I could about this moment: the sunshine beaming down on my face, the surprisingly wind-free conditions, the way the late morning light hit the snow, the people congratulating each other, in awe of what they had just accomplished.  This was my place and these were my people. 

All I could think was: I am exactly where I am supposed to be.  I’m not sure I had ever felt that emotion so entirely before.

What I and the other thousands of runners had completed together that September morning would be a memory not soon (if ever) forgotten.  Many marathons are run each year- and people run them for different reasons: personal goals, with or for family members, fundraising for a cause, etc.  But this experience felt somehow different.  With crossing that finish line, we would be bonded for life, not just by the race we had just completed, but by the experience of running in truly the most beautiful place on earth.  That, and the effort it took to get there in the first place.

Running in Patagonia is a different type of experience than running anywhere else.

It’s not just about a dedication to training, or the steady pulse of your feet hitting the pavement relentlessly for 26.2 miles on race day; It’s about getting back to the basics, and stretching our physical and mental limits as humans.

It’s about being reminded with every step that we are all a part of and wholly responsible for this uniquely pristine land.

It’s about respecting what we all stand for: beauty, purity, great wide open spaces – and the protection of them.

It’s about coming together as one, rather than being wedged apart, despite being individual racers, each with his or her own story, opinions and background.

The runners dedicated themselves to traveling many hours and thousands of miles, and in many cases, even days to being in Patagonia arrived to the race that day with one overarching personal truth: this is the place, and these are the moments that make us feel alive.

They give us faith.  They give us hope. 

My Patagonia marathon experience and desire to help do my part in this world and minimize my own footprint was only amplified by my stay at Ecocamp Patagonia with Cascada Travel. 

As Torres del Paine’s first fully sustainable accommodation, Ecocamp is a place that you can relax in what feels like the most luxurious place on earth, but also feel good about doing so.

Ecocamp lives and breathes the same truths and mores as the runners who are attracted to the Patagonia marathon, and it’s not hard to see why it is so special to so many of us who stayed there before and after race day. 

The Ecocamp team fully embodies the spirit of giving back, teamwork, and supporting one’s own community: 90% of the guides are employed from local regions, all food is bought from nearby suppliers, the majority of the decoration inside the domes comes from Argentinian and Chilean artisans.  And this isn’t limited to just the staffing and importing of products, but extends as well to the thoughtful construction of the domes themselves.  The semi-spherical Ecocamp domes have skylight windows, are heated by the old-fashioned way (fire) and are constructed in such a way to minimize their impact on the Earth.  

The property stays at the forefront of the newest green capabilities and actively seeks ways to improve and to do better (currently, electricity is limited and propane gas is used for heating, but the founders are in active talks to implement solar energy for heating in the near future).   

The same way that we, as runners, are used to pushing our limits to the best of our ability, Ecocamp prides itself on pushing comfort ‘to the limits of what is sustainable’.  Through their ethos, they demonstrate that within us all exists a capacity and ability to take care of and respect the land we live on.  What matters most is our continued conscious effort and dedication to doing so.  Ecocamp is trying harder than anyone I know, and creating a truly unique experience in doing so. 

Track and field coach and cofounder of Nike’s Bill Bowerman once said, “The real purpose of running isn’t to win a race. It’s to test the limits of the human heart.”

I couldn’t agree more, and a stay at soulful Ecocamp combined with the experience of the Patagonia Marathon gave me the ultimate heartfelt experience.  

Life feels simpler out there, but it feels just right.

Northern Lights in Northern Norway

“The lights are out!, The lights are out!” was the call to action during our stay at Lyngen Lodge. The house lights (the electric version) were all immediately dimmed (except a single lamp used by the kitchen prep team) and both guests and staff stopped what they were doing to see what was above us in the skies – leading to a scramble… some just out of the hot tub, others relaxing in front of the fire in slippers with a glass of wine, others reading in the cosy loft, and yet others just back from one of the great outdoor activities offered.  It does not matter – you bundle up as best as you can and jump to action to see the northern lights. Goretex rustles, tripods clatter together in the rush to get outside and quiet suggestions of camera settings are shared – with everyone hoping to try to somehow capture the display above.

We are firm believers that buzzwords should be avoided almost at all costs – especially when describing travel, which can be awash in them. 

Case in point – mention the Northern Lights or do a quick search and you’ll see ‘bucket list’,  ‘must do things to do in (insert location here)’ and numerous click-bait articles on the‘top things to do before you die’. 

Every year you see airlines selling packages based on them, aggregators touting all-inclusive tours, and various other superlatives about the aurora…  and the superlatives are true.

Ignore all of the noise – do a bit of research, and go see them.  You’ve seen the pictures on Instagram and from the good people at places like Visit Norway, but nothing does it justice until you have seen them yourself.  They move.  They twist. They change shape and expand across the sky right in front of your eyes and no matter how well filmed, captured and edited the end product is – it does not compare to the first person experience.

Now – the big question is where and when?  We’ve tried Iceland and seen them with middling results (no offense intended Iceland!) and set our sights on Norway.  It is more north, often with clearer skies.

There are myriad options in Norway. We were very intrigued by Lyngen Lodge because of its location (remote and north, in Djupvik near Olderdalen) and its description: ‘luxury boutique lodge’.

Transfers are offered but we decided it would be fun to hire a car in Tromso and drive – there are two options, one with two ferry rides across fjords and the other is the longer but more scenic route, which we chose. The drive was spectacular, if a bit harrowing, in a car without the proper snow tires and equipment, but also allowed us to become acquainted with the truly unique landscapes of northern Norway, where mountains seem ot jump from the sea/fjords around each bend.  It was totally worth it though as we got our first glimpse of the norther lights – initially saying ‘um I think I see something over there’ while trying to keep an eye on the icy roads and then a yell of “pull over!”

We saw a spectacular display on the side of the E6 road – we stood there in awe, shivering in the silence watching the green and pink display twist and change shapes above us.  Cameras (and coats) were buried in bags in the car and it was probably best that way for the first sighting – just experiencing it in awe instead of worrying about a tech set up.

As a result of our air (and aurora prompted) delays we arrived at Lyngen after the original anticipated time but were welcomed warmly by the staff and owners who sat us down immediately for a tasty bowl of soup and a quick orientation.  The lodge is well proportioned - traditionally built (massive wood logs and wool, no modern joinery or other insulation needed) and can accommodate 16 guests at a time in small-ish but well-designed rooms which actually encourages use of the super cosy main room with its large stone fireplace, sofas, and floor to ceiling windows providing fantastic views of the Lyngen Alps just outside. There is also a library and television room, but most guests seem to congregate in the warm living area / communal dining room spaces. 

The food at Lyngen Lodge was a particular surprise… an executive chef using locally sourced ingredients (expect fresh cod, crab, halibut, reindeer, lamb, etc) and presenting each evening’s 3 course meal along with a different red and white wine pairing each night – it was both quaint and high-end at the same time and always warming after a day’s activities and the small house and guide staff excels at making guests feel welcome - it feels more like a ‘lodge away from home’ because of the familiar faces you see throughout each day.

There are websites and twitter feeds dedicated to forecasting the aurora borealis, and you can drive yourself nuts trying to time it as you really only ever get a short window to see it at its best – our recommendation is to try to put the odds in your favor with time of year vs your schedule and just book the trip.  Lyngen Lodge is magical when the lights are out and dancing as we experienced, and we are certain that it is still an amazing destination when the weather (and solar particles) is less cooperative with all of the adventures on offer.

super cozy:  post northern lights viewing at Lyngen Lodge